The Kautz Family in Zambia

Egypt - Christmas 2010

2011-01-09T20:23:00.003+02:00

Our trip to Egypt (Dec 19th - Jan 3rd) was fantastic!!

We started in Cairo - a city of 23 million. It was a culture shock for us to come from nice, quiet Zambia to this LOUD, crowded city with a population almost double all of Zambia! Cars honking continuously, the 5 times a day call to prayer, radios blaring, people continuously asking: "taxi?" "scarf?" "papyrus?" "come into my shop" "eat at my restaurant" ... and on and on... the phrase "la'a shukran" (no thank you) came in very handy.

One of the most hilarious things I read about was how to cross the streets. Pedestrians don't have the right of way, so to get across multiple lanes, we used an Egyptian as a buffer (he/she would take the hit first!) and would cross lane by lane - we could never made it across all four lanes at once! - with the Egyptian on the oncoming car side.

Somehow everyone we met had a brother/cousin/uncle/father, etc. who had a shop, and could we just stop in for a few minutes? No obligation to buy, of course. How can you say no without being rude (of course, in the end, it didn't really matter what we said or did, they acted very hurt that we didn't buy anything). And, naturally, the shops had NOTHING we would ever want to buy anyway!

Oh - and the baksheesh. Everywhere, everyone wants baksheesh - a tip. To use the bathroom, we paid. We were even hiking and we passed a lady who called out "baksheesh!" - and she didn't do anything to deserve it.

Peter is growing his hair out (life is too short to battle this one!) - and random people loved touching his hair. He wanted to say "one dollah!!" to have them touch his hair, but no one was willing to pay.

All that said, we LOVED the change in culture and being in the city! First stop: Egyptian Museum, then on to Giza -pyramids and sphinx. the Citadel and the major market in the city.

The kids took their first train ride - an overnight 12 hour train ride to Aswan at the southern end of the Nile. It was a fun adventure!

Aswan was the most beautiful city on the Nile and the felucca ride (sail boat) was a treat. The wind died down on our way back - and we had to get a tow from a motor boat.

Aswan is famous on it's own, but it's also the launching point to get to Abu Simbel - an amazing monument to Ramses II - buried mostly under sand for hundreds of years. To go there, you need to be part of a bus/taxi convoy which leads at specific times. Ours left at 4am, which meant we were up at 2:45 to get to the departure site. Abu Simbel was an amazing site - and the fact that it was moved from one location to another was even more phenomenal.

Luxor was our next stop - home to many tombs and temples... the most famous area being the Valley of the Kings (perhaps a bit over-rated). Lots of tombs, temples and museums... FANTASTIC sights, beautiful temples with intricate carvings on granite - and paint still covering parts of the tombs, 3-4,000 years later.

Next onto the Sinai Peninsula - snorkeling and hiking to the top of Mt. Sinai. The ocean was beautiful - although a bit chilly - and being one with Moses on Mt. Sinai was pertty cool. How he climbed up there - and climbed down carrying the 10 commandments on the stone tablets is a miracle.

Oh, and the food was great - babaganoush, kofta, tahini, hummus, lemon juice, pita, fish...oh, and we came across our first Mc Donald's and Starbucks in Africa...so we made the pilgrimage.

Phrases we heard all the time: "where you from?" "America?" "Obama!" "America? But you look like you from_____" - fill in the blank with an Asian country "Mustache" (they would call out as John walked by - they were quite envious of the bushiness of his mustache), "you want to buy..." "only one dollah" "I don't know what you want, but I have it" (that was our favorite line).

Great memories for our family - and really trying to share the joy and value of experience (instead of "stuff") with our kids.

Happy New Year!

Here's a link to our photos:

Welcome back to Zambia - August 2010

2010-08-29T19:12:00.005+02:00

We made it back to Zambia safe and sound -but not without a little drama including a missed flight - a first for us...

First the drama:

Even though we were awake on time (4am) and arrived at the airport on time, we missed our flight on Thursday - the airport was packed in the morning (as usual) and even though we got there in plenty of time, we happened to get in the TSA line with a trainee where every single bag that went through was looked at and discussed. Because it was so crowded, it wouldn't have been worth it to move to another line.

Then, John had to have one of his bags opened, searched and put through the xray again. We ran to our gate and I think they had just closed it - and they were unwilling to open it for us and the other guy who was also late.

Mimi drove back to the airport to pick us up - and after a short nap, I spent the next 2 1/2 hours trying to book our flight for the next day...United told us that South African Airways (SAA) had to rebook, SAA said it was United who had to do it - so it was back and forth between the 2 airways to figure out who was going to book us...finally it was set.

There were no problems getting out of Seattle (since they had given us boarding pass the day before), but when we arrived in Dulles, there were several issues: 1) John was told that South Africa (the country) requires at least 4-5 empty pages in his passport (and he had none)... thankfully, when we made the argument that we were in transit and not staying in SA, they relented.

Then they held our 3 extra bags hostage and wanted us to pay for extra luggage (we had 3 bags above the 8 bag allotment) - and had to haggle with them about that...finally they let it go, but when we landed in Lusaka, we were missing 2 bags (which we got 2 days later).

We arrived home to dead batteries in both our cars - mine still needs to be jumped and I'm afraid I need a new battery. The kids start school tomorrow (Tuesday) and are trying to get over jet lag, so it'll be a tough first week for them. John and I are back to work on Monday and starting to settle in.

The weather is beautiful here - blue skies, it feels like fall but it warms up in the afternoon.
It feels good to be back in Zambia...the Peter yelled "we're home!" when we landed in Lusaka and they are settling in nicely!

It has been been great to be back - and it does feel like home. We have a lot of goals and things we want to accomplish during our remaining time here - so pray for us!

iy h

Kim's fantastic visit

2010-08-29T14:22:00.015+02:00

I am so far behind in putting stuff up on our blog that I am only now - in October (2010) putting in stuff about Kim's visit to us in June. We are always so excited to have visitors - and to have Kim come all the way from Beijing was a real treat for us.

First stop: Victoria Falls! Ironically, we had just been to Vic Falls the previous weekend with a donor group but it was great to do new things and experiencing it with Kim made all the difference in the world! :-)

In June, the rivers above the falls are full of water from the rains - so there was a lot of water coming over the falls.

We donned our customary rain slickers to try and keep some of the spray and mist off our clothes - but of course, we got drenched.

Instead of staying in the fancy pants hotel we stayed in with the donors, we opted to camp - and found a new place where we pitched our tent on the edge of a beautiful lagoon.

Under the bridge that separates Zimbabwe and Zambia (the same bridge that bungi jumpers jump from) - we noticed a steady stream of illegal Zimbabwean baboons who were crossing over to Zambia!! You can make them out below on the horizontal beam.

On our evening cruise on the Zambezi River, we found this group of elephants who seemed to be stranded on the bit of land but I know they can swim...so I guess they were just posing for the tourist boats (like the one behind them).

So even though we were roughing it by camping, we still got to have a drink (or a sundowner as they call them here) at the lovely -and fancy - Royal Livingstone, located right on the Zambezi River. You can see the spray of the falls right behind my head...which shows how high the water sprays!

Next stop: South Luangwa for a safari trip. I was the only one in the family who had been to the park - and so, together with Kim, we decided to drive the 9+ hours to the site. I'm pretty sure that was the first - and will be the last - time we drive!

One afternoon, I looked out our chalet window and saw a herd of elephants walking through the lodge eating the bushes and trees.

I found them drinking water out of the pool! And they had trampled down the little fence surrounding the pool...they can be so distructive (which is why villagers don't like them eating their crops and walking through their gardens).

Next adventure: our game drive.

We were lucky to see lions - everyone always wants to see lions ... but they spend so much time sleeping that I wonder if it's worth all the hype. IF we saw them stalking, killing and eating something, then I'd be happy (although completely grossed out).

We love visitors and love showing them our life here in Zambia...Come for a visit!

During our evening drive, the drivers always try to find a nice spot on the river for us to get out, stretch our legs, drink a beer and enjoy the evening light. Here we saw hippos snorting away and starting their evening grazing.

Harare!

2010-08-29T13:36:00.011+02:00

Took my first trip to Zimbabwe for a communicators conference (my first conference!). Wasn't sure what to expect in Zim given all the media, but there were some surprises. Being in a conference meant that from morning to dinner we were sitting in a cramped conference room, so we didn't get to see much of the city of Harare or the country.

First impression at the airport: clean, beautiful and way nicer than Lusaka...People told me that it used to be really ratty - so luckily, I saw it after the renovation!

This is a park across the street from our hotel, it took up one city block! This is not only shocking because of the size - but again, comparing to Lusaka, there are virtually no parks here, so just seeing one was awesome.

Downtown Harare has some super modern looking buildings (more so than Lusaka). Zimbabweans say that the Harare of today is nothing like the glory of the city 20 years ago.

Here's the amazing thing about the Zim currency....it has been devalued so much that they now trade in US dollars... I found TWO 50 BILLION dollar notes on the ground and when I asked someone why they didn't pick up the money, they said, "it's only paper... it has no value."

So, now Zimbabwe is using the US dollar for currency. The top bill was one that I received as change - nasty, grimy...and as you can see, about ready to fall apart. The dollar bill below was one that we had in our stash - used, but nothing like the one from Zim. The single dollar bill is the most traded in Zim and they can't take them out of circulation and print more, so they must keep using them until they fall apart (or people like me buy stuff with newer bills and take the nasty, ratty ones out as change). Also, for the poor, there are difficulties because Zim doesn't have any coins for change, it means that people who can only afford one loaf of bread (at 30 cents) are now forced to buy two or three and rarely get full value out of the currency.

Obama tshirts are everywhere!

This was an amazing mural on the side of a building.

Was this intentional - or a typo?? :-)

Trash by one of slum areas we visited. The good news is they have a trash can...

This building was originally built for manual laborers who came into Harare for work - with so many people coming into the city for work, each of the rooms that used to house one man now houses 4-5 people.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Our friends took us to one of the most popular spots in Zim for BBQ (or braai as they call it here). When you drive up, many ladies (and some men) ask you if they can be your cook.

Step #1 - before we even could get off the bus - we were accosted by people who wanted to be our cook. Pick a cook.

Step #2 - walk across the dirt parking area to the meat markets - and pick out what you want to BBQ. Beef, pork, chicken - all cut in various ways. Thank goodness the meat was kept in refrigerated units!

Step # 3 - take your bags of meat to the lady you selected to do your cooking. The lady we used is the one on the left in the white tshirt. The guy who picked her comes to this place on a regular basis and she's his regular cook (but you can see that there are lots of braiis set up under the roof).
We practiced good hygiene by washing our hands before we ate (since we did all our eating with our hands, this was essential). Our cook was the one who poured the water and offered up the soap.

Next - we belly up to the table. Big plates of hot, nicely seasoned beef, chick and pork...and some veggies on the side. Although I was a bit skeptical, it was a really delicious meal - and BONUS: no one got sick!

Ginger - our new family member

2010-08-29T12:39:00.001+02:00

We had heard about the animal welfare society from friends - where dogs who couldn't travel with their families were left behind... we were told that they just need some love and care - no matter how long! So, when we learned we were staying one more year, we thought we could offer a dog a nice home for a year and we could use that year to see if the kids were responsible enough to take care of the dog.

John and Peter went to the "pound" the day after we got back from the states - and together, they picked out Ginger (who was named "Joker" - with a name like Joker, we knew we had to change it!). Ginger and her sister were found behind a walled compound abandoned so she was used to scavenging for her food, digging holes to sleep in - and was probably abused.

She was super skitterish and suspicious when we got her, but over time, she's turned into a really nice dog (although still prone to biting the brothers!).

The kids have done a great job taking care of Ginger - alternating days for poop patrol... now we have to get on the training regime!

San Francisco Summer

2010-08-28T05:14:00.010+02:00

(Something funny is happening with the alignment and spacing...apologies!)

Being in SF this summer was a blast - no two ways about it! BUT, it was cold - and many folks quoted Mark Twain who said, "the coldest winter I spent was the summer in San Francisco." The fog was low... the wind was blowing hard - but on our last days there, it warmed up in the afternoon and was really beautiful.

Went to Angel Island - said to be the Ellis Island of the west - but really it was a holding place for many Chinese, Japanese and other Asians. They have fixed up the site and highlighted poems written by Chinese about the dispair they felt at not being able to get out of the Ellis Island. From 1910 to 1940, the island processed hundreds of thousands of immigrants, the majority from China. During WWII, Japanese, and German POWs were held on the island, which was also used as a jumping-off point for American soldiers returning from the Pacific. In the ’50s and ’60s, the island was home to a Nike missle site.

Peter ringing the bell that says "US Immigration Station, Angel Island, 1910."

Picnic lunch on the island - before the start of our big hike!

We made it to the peak of Angel Island - with a foggy view of Tiburon.

Yerba Buena gardens was beautiful, an oasis in the city and we walked to the modern art museum afterwards.

Jim and the kids waiting for John - who was still wandering around the museum!

Pier 39's famous sea lions - the pier "allowed" the sea lions to stay here when they realized what a tourist attraction they were! More sea lions = more money!

Thanks Jim and Barb for a great visit!

Summer in LA LA Land

2010-08-27T21:31:00.009+02:00

Oh joy to visit the happiest place on earth!!! We had a great time with my nephews Riley and Evan getting there at the opening and staying until after 10pm...well worth every bit of the (seemingly exorbitant) entrance fee.

We HAD to go on the jungle cruise to see how different the Disney safari was from the REAL safaris we've been on ...so you be the judge. Which is the real thing of the two images above??

Real?? Or fake???

When we walked out of Adventure Land, I saw a wall of masks where I remembered taking a photo a few years ago with the kids...so just to compare - the top photos were from three years ago and the bottom photos are from this year...LOTS of growth over those years.

So fantastic to see Minnie right before we walked out for the night! The timing was perfect since Sophie had just purchased her Minnie ears! I know these characters have smiles plastered permanently on their faces, but even their bodies seem happy - and I'm sure they must get sick of posing for pictures, but whoever lives in those costumes seem like really nice people! I mean, they wouldn't have drug dealers dressed up as Minnie and Mickey, would they?

Autotopia - everyone's favorite! New cars! Sophie drove the car I was in - and if her driving is any indication of her future driving habits, then we will have to insure her to the max when she gets her driver's license!

I used our new Nikon to take these pics of the fireworks show!

Wow, the pics turned out great - and the fireworks were pretty amazing!

Cousin Matt met us in Santa Monica for breakfast and a stroll along the beach and the pier. We were total tourists! Thank goodness I had to buy a touristy trinket for a work colleague so the pier was the perfect shopping spot - even though I'd never go into those shops as a near-native Southern California! Horrors.

One of Sophie's requests was to see the Hollywood sign.

One ideal spot was at the Griffith Park Observatory, which had been recently remodeled.

The observtory and the planetarium show were highlights of our trip.

We got to see cousin Evan play basketball and a bonus was that Rob was the substitute coach - with support from Riley. I can't remember who won, but the team played really well!

Auntie Lisa and Sophie

Hanging with cousins Riley and Evan before the big DS face off!

Auntie Lisa and Peter

It was so great to be with family... just hanging, catching up, living every day life - and eating great food. Cleaning and purging at my parents ... a good reminder NOT to wait 40+ years to start cleaning out the closets! And, lest we think we are without fault, believe me in our nearly 20 years of marriage, we have accumulated much. And, being in Africa, away from our stuff, we realize how little stuff we really need - but how much in relationship we need!

Visit to Truckee, CA

2010-08-27T19:22:00.006+02:00

We visited Rob, Kerry, Jessie and Ryan Kautz in Truckee. Wow, what a beautiful place in the summer time!

First stop: Ryan's new MERC (Mobile Emergency Response Center) - a super cool container with everything that's needed to respond to an emergency (including office, equipment, beds, and the satellite you see on the front of the truck). Ryan has done an incredible job with his business and it was such a joy to spend time with him (especially for John who got to spend 2+ hours talking with him about the biz). We were so impressed with the work Ryan is doing - and his business acumen and hard work. We are so proud of you, Ryan!

Some of Ryan's equipment

We took a great hike up near Rob's ski area.

Miniature golf with Jessie!! This was a great course and naturally, the Kautz competetiveness was out in all its glory.

This was a hilarious position that Kerry got into - she had to hit the ball with a bear nuzzling her bosom!

Very fun, short hike down the street from Rob and Kerry's.

Rafting on the Truckee River - with about 75 other boats. We tried with all our might to get Rob pushed into the river...and only when ALL of us put our effort into it, did we finally get the old man out of the boat and into the river!

These very Harry Potter-ish clouds were so cool over Lake Tahoe.

Our last funny shot: the dandelions were HUGE...couldn't help but do something creative with them!

Back to Tacoma!!

2010-08-27T12:47:00.008+02:00

It was wonderful to plop back down in the U.S. for almost 6 weeks after two years away. Our first stop: Tacoma. So great to be with family and friends!

Summer is the most beatiful time to be in the NW and we were blessed to enjoy the best the NW has to offer: long sunny days, fantastic fresh fruit - especially berries, melons and cherries and all kinds of great food!

Of course, what we've missed most are relationships -so it was fantastic to be with friends and family... Here's some photos from our first few weeks in Tacoma.

I spent most of the first two weeks working - but had a great time connecting with work friends, and the kids connected with their school buddies. I'm so sad that I didn't take more photos of our time with friends (like our time on Vashon!).

We stayed with Mimi - and bless her for letting us invade her world! It was great to be in the neighborhood and fun to look out her kitchen window at our house (which looks great!).

Best of buddies: Kent and Kelsey Silver with the kids

So fun to catch the weekly Seattle regatta.

Dinner on the Seattle waterfront with Auntie Mimi - it was a beautiful (albeit windy) evening.

Loved getting together with our Tacoma church buddies! Harlan, Lori Bekker, Teresa Enslin

Harlan, Max (the host together with Edwina), John and John Bekker

Our small group reunion - it was so great to hang with these guys again after two years. We miss the fellowship, laughter and meaningful conversation (what little there is of it!!).

We did a triathlon!!

2010-07-04T08:02:00.003+02:00

We did another first: a (super) mini triathlon!! Miyon did an individual one and joined a team with John and Peter; and Sophie was also on a team with her friends.

When I say mini, I mean mini... 800meter swim, 6 km bike, 2km run.

On our team - the "Furious Three" (I was going for "Two Oldsters and Kid"...) finished in 35:40. Sophie's team (she was the biker with her friends Ava and Tino) called "The Macaroonies" finished in 36:32. And I finished my individual in 36:20 which put me in fourth place overall, and 2nd place women (the first place woman was a 14 year old!). We had so much fun and we're definitely in to better our times next year!

With our medals. I got a trophy for finishing first in the women's 40+ category!

After finishing the race - tired but really excited to know I finished - and kept ahead of the other ladies in my heat!! Ironically, we were on vacation at Lake Malawi the week prior to the race and I broke/strained my big toe and was afraid I wouldn't be able to do the race.

My friend, Jamo, who was the one who convinced me to do the race. This was also her first time to do the individual race.

Peter waiting for the hand off from John (who is riding up the driveway).

John running the last few feet with Peter.

You may be wondering where the photos are of Sophie...because the heats are leaving and returning at all different times, we weren't able to capture her, but next year she'll be featured!

Bathrooms - which one to choose?

2010-05-23T15:16:00.002+02:00

For some reason this struck me as funny... I was at a government school and needed to use the pit latrine. I found there were three choices:

- Girls Lower

- Girls Upper

- Ladies

I chose "Ladies" because I figured it had the least use!

John's Workshop

2010-05-22T17:28:00.005+02:00

John took the camera to his work one day so we can show you some of the guys he's working with - and what they're making.

Organizing a new shipment of rosewood.

Our most skilled worker Sylvester

Emanuel straightening a piece of teak on the jointer

Banda preparing a board for gluing.

Simon and Harrison assembling a kitchen cabinet.

John Dindy installing hardware for a set of kitchen drawwers.

Sylvester, Banda, and John.

Sylvester installing pullout shelves.

Sylvester and Emanuel cleaning up. They sell the wood shavings to horse owners who use it to put in the bottoms of their horse stalls - recyling at work.

At a recent show (the Diplomatic Spouses Luncheon), John gets surrounded by a group of chefs admirinig their rosewood butcher block table.

The First Lady of Zambia stopped by the booth to admire the handiwork. Scott, John's partner and Peter are in the front.

Everyday life!

2010-05-22T08:15:00.007+02:00

It's almost getting too cold to get into the pool - but Sophie is enjoying one of the last few warm days. Winter here generally starts in June-ish, but the mornings and evenings are getting chilly (which means we have to throw on a jacket or sweatshirt!).

Peter and the brothers find ways to entertain themselves on a regular basis. It's amazing what a little creativity - and plants - can make! Here Peter is with Billy (11) and Mutale (14).

It's getting cold enough that our mutantly large poinsettias are in full bloom - beautiful.

Peter's Class Project -

2010-04-11T16:44:00.009+02:00

Every Grade 5 class at the school participates in an Exhibition - I think of it as a thesis before they graduate from primary school! This year's topic was: Find The Balance: together we can find the balance between earth and man and make the world a better place today, tomorrow and forever.

The purpose of the Exhibition is to gain skills, knowledge and attitudes to prepare for this transdicisiplinary unit. Kids invite guest speakers to talk about local issues that connect to world issues; write their central idea; choose topics based on personal interest; gather research; summarize the research, make conclusions and prepare for their presentations; share their learnings with others; reflect and take action!

Peter worked with two other classmates - Jurgen and Nick - on recycling and efforts that are being done in Lusaka to use recycled materials.

One day, as part of their research, they went to Mercy Ministries - the school and ministry of our friends the Phiris where they are making glass beads out of recycled glass bottles.

The bottles are collected, cleaned and sorted.

Widows from the community clean the bottles.

Bottles are sorted by color and broken into small pieces (to make it easier to melt).

People in the community were trained by a Ghanian glass maker.

He built this kiln for them to use.

The re-hot kiln baking the beads

The glass pieces are put into the molds.

After the beads are fired - they have to smooth out the rough spots - which they do by rubbing the beads with mud on a flat stone...the finished product is in front.

Jurgen, Nick and Peter made their own beads.

Finished beads.

DURING THE EXHIBITION

The evening of the exhibition display, the grade 5 kids had an amazing performance before people walked around to see the exhibits. There was singing and dancing and speeches. We all walked away amazed and impressed with what 10 and 11 year olds can do.

Peter (standing on the box) - had a dancing part! Imagine our surprise when we saw him dancing! He was great!

Peter showing his materials for some parents.

Some of the displays on the stage...most kids worked in groups of 2-3 and both the displays and their knowledge of their subject was impressive. Some of the other topics kids picked:

- Animal Conservation

- Deforestation

- Poaching and Illegal Fishing

- Water Shortage and Water Pollution

- Energy

- Import and Export vs. Local Business

- Illegal Charcoaling

Water Lily

2010-04-11T15:29:00.003+02:00

Took a fun trip to a lake/resevoir about 3 hours north of Lusaka with the Wilkinsons and Mike V. While we were on the lake, we "picked" a water lily... and I had each person pose, in their own unique way, with that lily, then created a collage. VERY FUN!!

Spring Break Road Trip to Lake Malawi

2010-04-09T14:50:00.021+02:00

The roads were good for driving - the scenery was fantastic and we didn't have any car problems (like last year's trip to Namibia and Botswana)!!

Along the roadside, we saw lots of used clothing for sale.

We took another road trip for the kids' spring break and headed east to Lake Malawi, the third largest lake in Africa (behind Lake Victoria and Lake Tanganyika). The drive from Lusaka to Lilongwe, Malawi (the capital) took 8 hours. Malawi is about a sixth the size of Zambia, with the same population (approx.12 million).

The lake is so big it looks like the ocean! And, there were even small waves that crashed on the shore. We enjoyed hanging out on the beach, walking and picking up beautiful round stones that were smooth and cool to the touch.

Every day the cattle took their walk along the water. Thankfully, they didn't poop in the water right in front of us...of course, that doesn't mean they didn't do it elsewhere along the lake!

We saw the most amazing sight - this bright orange-red moon rising over the horizon.

These boys came out each evening as the sun was setting with their makeshift fishing net. The fish they caught were tiny, but at least they were successful.

Carrying their net, walking down the beach in their little undies!! Notice the younger brother is the one who has to carry their clothes and the bucket for the fish!!

Visiting Skezipe, our World Vision sponsored child

The day before we left, we realized that one of our sponsored children lives in Malawi, in the northern part of the country, which is where we were headed. A quick visit to the World Vision Malawi office got us permission to visit her three days later.

John, serving as the official Kautz family spokesperson. I was warned by the WV staff that the man is the one who is supposed to speak!

Curious girls. Peter was complaining how everyone at the event was staring at him. I told him they were just curious. But at a grocery store, one of the cashiers asked me if Peter was a boy or a girl, so I told him that the village may have been staring at him wondering the same thing.

Walking to Skezipe's house - along with 50 other villagers, mostly kids

I had been to the World Vision Area Development Program (ADP) five years ago with a donor group - and had met Skezipe for the first time. For our trip, the staff had arranged for a community gathering and so I anxiously scanned the crowd wondering if I would be able to recognize her - and if she would recognize me.

I saw her, looked at her and smiled...she looked at me, then broke out into a huge grin! It was such a great feeling to know that she recognized me!! She had gotten bigger, but her face was the same and thankfully, each year World Vision sends out an annual progress report with a photo!

In Skezipe's home - we were served a HUGE lunch and presented gifts of wooden hand tools and food from the garden. The home was very small for six people (2 adults and 4 children). The father got a small room to himself and the mother slept in a room with all the children. I'm thinking the father got more rest than the mother!! :-)

With Skezipe's mother and father. Her father is a farmer and the mother stays home and takes care of the children and the house.

The kids said that visiting with Skezipe was one of the highlights of our trip. It's a rare opportunity for donors to be able to see their sponsored children, but a joy to know that they are REAL and are thriving, through the work of World Vision.

Sophie sleeping as we drive...

Ha ha ha...she was just faking it!

Monica Hangoma - one of our caregivers

2010-03-25T16:43:00.003+02:00

Here is the speech Monica gave at our National Caregivers Appreciation Day. She used to get ill whenever she she thought about caring for someone with HIV/AIDS...and then she became a caregiver and her whole perspective changed. Above, she is shown with two of her clients she visits on a regular basis.

Ladies and gentlemen

On this caregivers day, I Monica Hangoma from RAPIDS I would like to say it is my pleasure and honor to be accorded this rare opportunity to talk on behalf of my fellow caregivers across Zambia.

I would like to thank RAPIDS for their training given to us, we achieved more knowledge. To USAID for funding the program; because of their support we are here praising today and also to the government of Zambia for their partnership at community and local level.

In 2000, my elder sister was sick for a long period. Family members believed that she was bewitched. They took her to many different traditional healers. That is when the sickness was worse.

My aunt came and took her for VCT (voluntary counseling and testing) where she was tested and found HIV positive. She started taking drugs and was cared for and monitored by a stranger -- a caregiver. However, because she started the drugs late, the medication did not respond well and as a result, she died in 2001.

I was touched by the help of the so-called caregiver. I thought, if this woman can take care of someone who is not even her relative, why can’t I do likewise? That same year, I became a caregiver.

Before I didn't want to mix with sick people, I used to feel nausea and vomiting. I was also afraid of getting sick.

My role is to provide care and support to people in the community who are suffering from HIV/AIDS and related diseases. I teach them how to prevent themselves from getting the disease. I encourage them to go for VCT, provide spiritual support, material support, physical support, cleaning, taking them to the health centers and seeing that they are taking their medicine at the right time.

And I have known how to love every human being sick or poor, and keep their secrets. Now, I am a friend to sick people. Without love you can’t be a caregiver, with love every thing is possible. For my clients, they are loved and cared for hence their lives are prolonged.

Therefore I would like to thank all those who are supporting the work of a caregiver; may the good Lord bless you all.

Thank you.

One of our caregivers speaks about his experience

2010-03-23T20:30:00.003+02:00

Jackson with some of his clients

Jackson Zondwe is a caregiver with our program and was selected to speak on behalf of the 20,000 caregivers around Zambia. His life has been transformed as a result of being a caregiver. Following is his speech that he gave to our national caregiver appreciation day:

My name is Zondwe Jackson from the RAPIDS consortium. I am greatly humbled today to be given this rare occasion of presenting g this speech on behalf of all the dedicated caregivers across this great country Zambia.

I started working as a caregiver in 2004. Since then, I have been trained in many skills as a caregiver, among them is to stand in the gap for my clients. I am always there for my clients who have no one to encourage them in life because of their status and for those clients who cannot get to the clinic for their appointments. I am also there to counsel those who are not adhering to treatment and care and help households discuss behavior change and prevention of HIV/AIDS.

As a caregiver, I counsel my clients in all situations and they in turn make informed decisions in their lives. Supporting my clients has helped me personally. This work has made a big difference in my life.

Before I started caregiving, I was a drunkard and used to abuse alcohol in the real sense and as a result I engaged in risky behavior. But, one day, after a routine visit to one of my clients, he told me he was drunk the day before and this made him forget to take his drugs. I encouraged him to stop drinking alcohol and then, my client stopped drinking beer and became adherent to his treatment. But one day, without expecting him, he found me drinking a pack of shake shake beer. To be honest with you people, I was so much ashamed before him.

I learnt my lesson. Now what I tell my clients is that what I also do. I lead a happy life -- even my marriage is now happy. I have a happy family again because of a changed life through being a caregiver.

Being a caregiver is not only caring for others but it has also taught me to care for myself and my family. Now I am faithful to my wife and share this prevention message with others: ONLY THROUGH PREVENTION CAN WE STOP HIV/AIDS.

Many lives of my clients have been changed through this work of being a caregiver. There are people in the community who totally refused to do an HIV test but after having counseling sessions with them, they have agreed to the test and are in HIV care and treatment. Now, they are back being employed, providing for their families and heading happy families that were nearly torn apart during their illness. These are the people who are in the forefront advocating against stigma and discrimination and preaching prevention of the spread of HIV/AIDS.

I would like to thank RAPIDS, USAID and the Zambian government for recognizing our efforts and our role as caregivers in fighting HIV/AIDS.

I will end by saying ONLY THROUGH PREVENTION CAN WE STOP HIV/AIDS.

Thank you.

Our Future

2010-03-19T16:47:00.005+02:00

Amazingly, we've already been in Zambia almost 19 months - with only five months left on my contract. Even here in the southern hemisphere, time still flies quickly!

As I write this, I am watching Viriginia our housekeeper sweep the leaves off the grass with her reed broom...no power leaf blower, just sweeping bent over, the old-fashioned way. Life is simpler here without the distractions of life in a developed world. I'll comment on this in another blog...

I'm working on figuring out my job situation and our future. We'd all like to stay in Zambia, but funding will be an issue - it's not cheap to have an ex-pat living overseas. So, the first order of business is to determine whether WV will continue to fund my position. Then, we have to wait until late May to see if we get awarded the grant from USAID.

If neither of those options work out then I'll seek out a job at WV (back in Federal Way). One of the stipulations of taking this job in Zambia was that there would be no guarantee that I would get a job back at WV (I gladly accepted the risk), but it means I could be joining the ranks of the unemployed!

We're praying that we can stay... Please join us in praying that decision makers would agree to funding my position.

Either we'll be back in Tacoma this summer for good...or we'll be back for a short summer holiday and come back to Zambia again. We look forward to seeing you!

My First Gross Bug Living Inside!

2010-03-09T20:13:00.004+02:00

This past Sunday, I was sitting on the couch and looked down at the back of my calf (which I rarely, IF EVER do) ... and there was this black circle with a hole in it! Where did it come from? What is it????

We have an ex-Peace Corps friend who thought it might be either a putsi fly or a bot fly. One of them lays larvae in damp clothes then burrows into your skin - and you have to wait until the worm thing comes out. The only way to prevent this is to either put your clothes in the dryer or iron your clothes. That must be why we have a housekeeper who irons ALL our clothes: to keep the bugs off!

The other one has larvae that is carried on the backs on a mosquito or fly - then lands on you, finds another warm, wet place - and burrows into your skin.

Of course, I'm not sure that it's either of those things, but I find it hard to believe that my skin would suddenly turn black - and have a crater in it!! There's only a little bit of a bump - but I don't even remember there being a bite or anything. Freaky! But curiously interesting....

Either way, the worms will have to come out - and there's puss involved - and a squirmy head (with teeth!)trying to get out of my skin ....

Any arm chair doctors or hypochondriacs who want to offer up their opinions?

My leg with the spot...

A close up of the crater in the middle of the black spot. If it changes throughouot the week, I'll take more photos and post them!

Fun With Austin...

2010-03-08T21:18:00.002+02:00

Our buddy Austin was here to speak at the American school for a global issues summit. On Sunday after his commitments, we went up to the Wilkinson's farm and had a BBQ (or a braai as they call it here). Isaac W. decided he wanted to be buried in dirt!

Look at those dirty hands and legs! Nothing beats being a kid!!

With Natan and Naomi Huddle making ice cream - the old fashioned, hand cranked way.

Happenings On Our Street

2010-03-08T20:27:00.003+02:00

I drove down the street - and saw this huge tree across the street. I thought it had fallen down but I think they chopped it down...

There were about 5 guys chopping down the tree. No chain saws, only axes...labor is cheap here, electric tools are almost non-existent.

These ladies were walking down the street with their brooms. I wasn't sure if they were there to clean up the debris from the tree or if they were off to another job sweeping dirt from the street. Again, no street cleaners (the big truck with brushes) only ladies with big brooms!

Mosquito Net Distribution - Chipata, Eastern Province

2010-03-08T08:17:00.012+02:00

At the first distribution site, people grouped themselves by village. They had come from far away to get their free nets.

These women caregivers are wearing their RAPIDS chitenges (fabric wrap) and are dancing like no one's business! The caregivers will be the ones to talk with clients/recipients about the nets, how to care for them - and will check up on them on a regular basis to make sure they are being used correctly.

These mothers are waiting for nets. Pregnant women and children under five years are the generally targeted first for nets because they are the most vulnerable.

Before the actual distribution, the district health staff tell the net recipients about malaria, the nets, how they are used and how to care for them. There were several thousand people at this first distribution.

At the second distribution, I asked the people "how many of you had malaria last year?" - nearly everybody raised their hands. The nets (seen at left still in the bales) will go a long way towards reducing the incidences of malaria. If the area can get 80% coverage, there is a good chance that malaria will be eradicated.

Each person was registered by their caregiver before the distribution - and had to sign their names (or if they couldn't write, they used their finger print) to show they received their nets. If neighbors couldn't make it, they will also pick up their nets. The villagers will self-police and keep track of who should have received a net.

It was a very hot day, so people who brought their umbrellas were able to find some relief from the sun...or they could use their nets as shelter!

Everyone here carries stuff on their heads...that's why they have such excellent posture (a comment I keep pointing out to Sophie!!).

The granny in the middle came up to me - and just started talking away, in a language I didn't understand, but she had something to say to me! She was the sweetest woman and I loved listening to her speak so emphatically... but not being able to reciprocate. With time, she and her friends walked away, clearly I was no longer fun to talk with!

The grannies walking home with their nets. It always makes me happy to see old people because I know the ravages of AIDS have passed them over. On the flip side, they are often taking care of grandchildren and great children who have lost their parents to AIDS.

These school girls are so happy to get their nets!!

The methodology we use to distribute nets at the community level with our caregivers really is an ideal method and we have found net usability is high - and incidences of malaria have decreased. Caregivers will continue to check up with clients months from now to make sure they are being used properly.

Death

2010-02-27T11:26:00.003+02:00

One of my co-workers lost her mother this past week and I went with the staff to the funeral service. Her mother had been ill for quite some time - in and out of the hospital, and my workmate was the one who had been doing most of the caretaking. Two weeks prior to her mother's death, her brother unexpectedly passed away and she had to travel to another part of the country for his funeral...so within two weeks, she lost both her brother and her mother.

We waited about an hour and a half for the service to start (sitting in the car in the parking lot). I was told that the queue could be quite long to pick up bodies from the morgue, then because the family was doing the work themselves, they had to prepare the body...

As we were waiting there were many mini buses (taxis) dropping people off on an ongoing basis. Cars and trucks with 20 more more people sitting in the back also dropped people off.

I thought they were all there for the mother's service, but then a truck drove up with people crying loudly. The last man to get out of the truck was carrying a small white coffin, that was only about 2 feet long, an infant. Once they arrived, people went to view the body, then they picked up the coffin and went to the burial site.

At about the same time, the family arrived with the mother's coffin. Many people were crying - and some of them fell to the ground (one guy even fell into a mud puddle). We didn't go in to view the body, it seemed like an intimate occasion reserved for family...but just as we were leaving another truckload of people arrived, this time it was another infant coffin that was being carried in.

Within 20 minutes three coffins had arrived, two infants and one old lady - with more people coming in with coffins as we were leaving.

Death. It's happens every day. But since we've been in Zambia, it seems like we see it more. Maybe because the main cemetery is on the road to the kids' school or maybe because there's just more death. Truckloads of people sitting in the back of a truck along with a casket and funeral service cars (for those with more money!) are every day sightings. It's not uncommon to hear from a staff person about the death of a relative.

And, I can only imagine what it must have been like at the height of the AIDS crisis. Death and funerals would have been every day occurrences and often, there would be multiple funerals to attend in a day.

The Zambian people are strong. Life and death are intertwined. It's still painful and heart wrenching.

Peter's Birthday Party

2010-02-27T07:31:00.003+02:00

Peter had some of his classmates over for a party and sleepover. Sophie and her two friends, Ava and Tino, helped organize the games - they had a great time!

The great thing about an international school is, of course, the international flavor! The kids are from all over the world, they all have different accents, these kids are incredibly polite (!) and, the universal trait of boys - they love to play!!

Peter's friends include, from left: Rueben - Zambian, Jamie - South African, Johannes - half Norwegian, half Zimbabwean; Jurgen - South African; Kaisei - Japanese.

The classic: Musical Chairs!

Pool Games

Sophie helping Jurgen and Peter with a clue for Scavenger Hunt!

As an aside, Peter is now the class president and Jurgen is his vice-president!

Everyone's a winner!!

Peter looking like a South African

2010-01-11T20:25:00.001+02:00

One quirky things about South Africans is they love wearing these little shorty-shorts (even in public!) - and these funky boot-shoes. Peter was given the gift of the shoes (which are really great)from Skip the proprieter at one of the places we stayed in Cape Town. So he added the rest of the stuff (including the big tummy) for this South African look (including the sunglasses on top of the head!).

New Hairdos....

2010-01-11T19:58:00.003+02:00

Since we were in "the big city"(Cape Town) Sophie, Peter and I all decided to get our hair cut (since there aren't very many good hair cutting places in Lusaka). Here's an "after" shot...One funny thing is that since Sophie got her hair cut, she's worn it in a pony tail nearly every day!

Christmas on the Donkey Trail - by Sophie

2010-01-08T16:51:00.004+02:00

Well, as you probably know we went on a family vacation to Cape Town, South Africa. I learned many things about being in a developed country but first of all, since it was Christmas, let me tell you my story of this Christmas that I had in Cape Town. We went on the Donkey Trail (pictures of the trail here) from the 22st-25th of December.

I wasn't really that thrilled about missing everything that we usually do for Christmas and Christmas Eve! My mom said we wouldn't be getting very many presents this year, so I wasn't too happy about that either!

It was Christmas Eve now and i was thinking about what we would do if we were home; well, now we would be getting our Christmas pajamas and be setting out the cookies for Santa but here we are now, sitting by the fire.

As we went to our house for the night and said goodnight to to our friends the Huddles, I looked up and saw the stars. Now I don't really think about them very often i just think that they are very pretty. But they were more than that as I looked at them tonight, they were the stars that led the three wisemen to baby Jesus' manger!

It was late and it was time to go to bed. I lay awake wondering about everything. It seemed like this place we were staying was how I mangined where Jesus was really born. It felt like I was there and we had gone back in time! I gave up on thinking about all the presents and realizing that hey, it isn't about us, it is about him and his birthday tomarrow! We are just celebrating his birthday with him.

That Christmas day was extrodinary! Wow is all I can say! It didn't seem like Christmas at all! We didn't go to California like we always did and visit our relatives, that night, after getting off the Donkey Trail, we just had a dinner at a resturant and then that was it, we just went to bed.

I got over the fact that we didn't really get anything for Christmas but right now we were in Cape Town and I was with my family and that was all that mattered! I was safe and my family was too.

I think we all learned something, well, at least my brother and I did. I'm so lucky that I have experianced this Christmas. I think it will be the most memorable Christmas in my life! Now I know how the Grinch felt! It didn't matter about the presents or the food, the stockings or the pajamas; being with my family was the greatest gift that Jesus has given me!

2010-01-08T16:50:00.001+02:00

Well, as you probably know we went on a family vacation to Cape Town, South
Africa. I learned many things about being in a developed country but first
of all, since it was Christmas, let me tell you my story of this Christmas
that I had in Cape Town. We went on the Donkey Trail (pictures of the trail
here) from the 22st-25th of December. I wasn't really that
thrilled about missing everything that we usually do for Christmas and
Christmas Eve! My mom said we wouldn't be getting very much presents and
this year, so I wasn't to happy about that either! It was Christmas Eve now
and i was thinking about what we would do if we were home; well, now we would
be getting our Christmas pajamas and be setting out the cookies for Santa but
here we are now, sitting by the fire. As we went to our house for the night
and said goodnight to to our friends the Huddles, I looked up and saw the
stars. Now I don't really think about them very often i just think that
they are very pretty. But they were more than that as I looked at them tonight, they were the stars that
led the three wisemen to baby Jesus' manger! It was late and it was time to
go to bed. I lay awake wondering about everything. It seemed like this
place we were staying was how I imangined where Jesus was really born. It felt like I was there and we had gone
back in time! I gave up on thinking about all the presents and realizing that
hey, it isn't about us it is about him and his birthday tomarrow! we are just celebrating
his birthday with him. That Christmas day was extrodinary! Wow is all i can
say! It didn't seem like Christmas at all! We didn't go to California like
we always did and visit our relatives, we just had a dinner at a resturant
and then that was it, we just went to bed. I got over the fact that we
didn't really get anything for Christmas but right now we were in Cape Town and I was with
my family and that was all that mattered! I was safe andy family was too. I think we all learned something, well, at least my brother and I but i'm so
lucky that I have experianced this Christmas. I think it will be the most
memerable Christmas in my life! Now I know how the Grinch felt! It didn't
matter about the presents or the food, the stockings or the pajamas; being
with my family was the greatest gift that Jesus has given me!

Cape Town - Dec 14 -30, 2009

2010-01-02T16:16:00.011+02:00

As part of our “more experiences, less stuff” movement, we spent Christmas in and around Cape Town for 16 days. The experience was fantastic! We had a great mix of sight seeing, shopping, hiking, beach combing and swimming.

Here are some of our adventures:

A trip to Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. I just finished reading “Playing the Enemy” (the book about how Mandela used rugby to help unite a racially divided country), then was fortunate to go to Robben Island, and that night we saw “Invictus” the movie made from Playing the Enemy.

Nelson Mandela's cell B - the cell was tiny, about 7' x 7'. How he remained sane - and forgiving is truely amazing.

Colorful houses in the Bo Kaap area where the Muslim population settled.

We met our good friends fromLusaka, the Huddles to go to the Cape of Good Hope. Here we are at Hout Bay on the way over Chapman's Peak.

On the Cape of Good Hope...felt like the end of the world!

Light house at the end of the point of Good Hope.

The next day we went to Simonstown - and saw penguins...on the beach in Africa!!!

The penguin on the right was molting...

We saw some amazing beaches with beautiful blue, green seas... living in a land-locked country, we found these sights so refreshing!

The Donkey Trail (Dec 22 - 25) was one of our favorite activities, hiking over the Swartberg Pass into the Die Hel in Gamkaskloof. The hike was 26 kms (16 miles), we hiked for 7.5 hours the first day and 7 hours on the second day, the third day was a three hour drive back to the farm where we started.

On the first day, the donkeys led the way carrying our food and supplies on the mostly all uphill trail.

Arriving into camp on our first day. There was a beautiful waterfall to welcome us, with cold beers and cokes sitting in the water. Our tents are in the upper left hand corner, eating tent without side panels is in the center. The kids did great hiking - there were times when it was tough going, but they didn't complain at all! What troopers!

One of the joys at the end of our first day of hiking, was this swimming (and bathing) hole. Because we're in the Cape Nature preserve everything is very ecological - including the biodegradable soap and shampoo they gave us.

Protea flowers growing in the wild - and all along our trail!

After our hike, we headed back to Cape Town for our last three days. We spent one day with the Huddles in Betty's Bay playing on some amazingly white sand dunes.

The kids found pieces of linoleum (left behind by other would be boarders) - and tried rather unsuccessfully to sled down the sand.

Peter making a "snow angel"

One day we hiked up Lion's Head which is the small pointy mountain in front of Table Mountain (on the far right below).

One part of the hike up Lions Head had us climbing up chains and metal ladders... no public safety issues here!

View from the top down looking down to Camps Bay.

On the top of Lions Head with Table Mountain behind us.

Looking out over the city

We won't forget our trip to Cape Town - and spending Christmas on a hike, out in the middle of nowhere, away from the usual commercialism...

The shock for us was the amount of choices there were: food, restaurants, shops, items for sale, choice, choice, choice! We felt like real country bumkins coming to the big city - even the Joburg airport was totally fascinating!!

However, talking with the few South Africans we met, there is still a lot of racial tension - and it's a very complicated country with a complicated past - the race issue/apartheid is difficult and it won't be fixed in one generation. There was some frustration mentioned about the racial quotas that are in place - when less competent blacks get jobs over better qualified whites (this was told to me by a white, so its a bit biased).

One woman we met (a retired physician) said that she hoped her children and grandchildren moved out of South Africa because it was too unsafe and she preferred them to live in another country...even though she would stay put since she's retired.

In spite of the beautiful buildings, landscaping, and cleanliness - we were shocked when we drove by the shanty towns! The blacks were all moved to these controlled compounds where there was mile after mile of tiny shacks made up of corrugated roofing or pieces of wood...

We could tell when we were coming up on a shanty town because slowly we would see blacks/coloreds walking on the street!

People hitch hiking: we saw lots of people hitching for a ride (mostly black), but the most unique part was when they also held out dollar bills in their hands!

Passing on the road: they have a wonderful system on two lane roads - if you're coming up on someone, the car in front will pull over onto the (very nice) shoulders - and allow us to pass in the lane. Once you're past, you push your emergency flashers as a way to say thank you!

Cape coloreds: The people were really interesting looking. I felt like I was in LA or NYC. There was a mixture of so many races/colors - black, white, Asian, middle eastern...beautiful people.

Coming back to Zambia: the kids were really excited when we were about to land in Lusaka. They said "we're going home!" I love that they consider Lusaka home... and not just a temporary stop.

And, once we were here, it felt like we were newcomers. Everything seemed new again. We were shocked at the number of people walking in the streets, ladies with baskets of food balanced on their heads with chitenge fabric wrapped around their skirts, the smell of exhaust, babies strapped to women's backs... we experienced a brief moment of culture shock... but in just a few minutes, it felt like home again. We feel blessed to be here - and to be able to have experiences that will change our lives forever.

Blackout:3rd Installment of Sophie's Journal

2009-12-13T09:43:00.002+02:00

I was thrilled!! This was like my lucky day! Hannah Montana, Sonny with a Chance, and Wizards of Waverly Place all back to back episodes tonight. I had my popcorn in one hand and my other hand with the remote and my fingers drumming, busy clicking channels. "Finally Hannah Montana is on!!," I said to myself. I was not even half way through when all of a sudden.....BAM!!!!! The power shut off like saying, "you are using to much energy! we cut your power off! have you looked at that new book for English?!"

I sighed, blackouts are just party poopers! My mom was busy getting candles and my dad brought them to the living room. But I realized something as well, we had the lights on, computers typing, ipods playing Christmas music in the background, Peter's ds telling him that Princess Peach was in danger and he should use Mario to defeat Bowser, and lastly, the tv that was blaring the "best of both worlds" from the Hannah Montana episode I was watching.

Why do we use so much power? This blackout would not have happen in Washington since we've never had any power outages in since 11 years!This blackout made me think more about the power we use and how we do take it for granted in the United States. Most Zambians live like this, with no light, power, and a stove to cook their food for dinner. But what if one day, there was no power in lets say Washington? Well, you couldn't work on your computers at work and the electronic coffee maker you always use won't work and on your way to work, you will have to stop by McDonalds and get their (yuck) coffee.

Think about it, we do take power as just a normal everyday thing. Maybe we may run out of power some day; people will lose their jobs, you couldn't fix dinner and you will have to go all out with candles, cook over fires, and just go to work come back, have dinner and go to sleep! No entertainment! Okay maybe I'm exaggerating on that old fashioned stuff but just keep in mind this week and throughout Christmas about the power you are using and if you can cut off a bit of power you are using. you could cut off some of the power by:

Turning off the lights when you go out of the room
Read more books than watch TV!
Only use the computer when you have to
Cut down on using the straighteners and curlers for everyday! just only for special occasions!

Pass this entry on to anybody you feel is using tons of power! We need to act now and save the environment while we can! Act now! Don't wait!

By Sophie Kautz

We Don't Just Use Cars....

2009-12-02T07:34:00.003+02:00

I didn't know that World Vision Zambia had a boat until I saw it in the parking lot at the National Office (I think it was getting serviced). The Zambezi River gets so deep in the Western Province that a boat is the quickest and most efficient way to transport staff the project area.

Honoring Our Amazing Caregivers

2009-11-29T12:52:00.003+02:00

We celebrated the second Caregiver Appreciation Day. An event is held in Lusaka that I organize to honor just 300 of the nearly 20,000 volunteer men and women who serve as Caregivers in their communities.

This year, there were a couple of disappointments: KK, the first democratically elected President (who attended the event last year), was unable to attend due to a last minute, out of country meeting conflict. In addition, the Permanent Secretary for the Ministry of Health, who is a good friend of our program, also backed out.

So, we started the event about 45 minutes late (there is a time honored tradition that we ALWAYS wait for the guest of honor even if he/she is late and in this case, KK's administrative guy was the one we were waiting for). In spite of those disappointments, I realized that we were really there to honor and appreciate the Caregivers, not our special political speakers!

Two Caregivers - a man and a woman (60% of the caregivers are women, 40 are men) spoke on behalf of the 20,000 Caregivers...In their first audition - they were so-so, but on the day of the event, they were FANTASTIC!!! (My photos are NOT fantastic, so sorry they're a bit blurry, my little point and shoot can only carry me so far).

Monica Hangoma had a sister who was HIV positive, who eventually passed away. When Monica went to visit her in the hospital, there was a caregiver who came to take care of her - and Monica wondered why this caregiver would take care of someone she didn't even know! In addition, there were issues of stigma and discrimination - Monica was revolted by the people who had AIDS and would even throw up just looking at them.

She's come a long way since then and now she is caring for people who can barely stand because of their illness...and is strongly advocating for people to get tested and if they are found to be positive, to join a support group to help dimish the stigma against AIDS.

Jackson Zongwe has an amazing story. He's been a caregiver for a while - and has taken a lot of the trainings we provide, even the one that said not to drink alcohol (since he's taking anti-retroviral medications). He had been in the habit of drinking - and engaging in "risky behavior" when one of his clients saw him and asked him why he was drinking. He suddenly realized that he's telling his clients not to drink - and here he was out drinking... He was ashamed enough to change his lifestyle right then.

The training he received as a caregiver saved his life -- he has stopped the drinking and the risky behaviour and, says that his marriage was saved. He is now healthy and a great caregiver.

God uses all kinds of people in this world to help one another...." and the second command is like it: love your neighbors as yourself"...these caregivers are living that out every day!

It is a blessing to know these wonderful, gifted people who serve out the kindness of their hearts to those affected and infected by HIV and AIDS.

To the Lower Zambezi - Again!

2009-11-29T11:32:00.005+02:00

I will never tire of seeing the beautiful elephants on the side of the river. On this trip, we saw so many come to the river to drink and splash mud over their massive bodies (which helps keep the bugs off).

We were celebrating our friend, Linda's birthday (she's exactly 6 days younger than me!). John caught his first (of many) tiger fish...and the guys were fishing maniacs - out the door at 6am back at 6pm...all catch and release fishing.

Tourists canoe down the Zambezi - WITH the current - and the boats drag the canoes back to the lodges.

Who can make the uglier face?? Isaac or Peter?

Our tent/bungalow. Two twin beds with a bathroom at the back. Sophie and I stayed together and Peter with John since there wasn't a room big enough for the four of us. At night, we heard and watched, the local hippo - Frankton as he walked around in front of our tent snorting and chewing on the grass.

Another beautiful African sunset....

Who is this girl?

2009-11-27T18:15:00.001+02:00

The girls all get together at someone's house to prepare for a dance, they borrow clothes and the bling, put on makeup, take pictures of each other (ad naseum!) while they pose like models (I think that's what they're trying to do). Who is this girl??

I recognize this girl!!

Every parent must go through this transformation process...one day she's your little girl - and the next day, she's _________ (fill in the blank, depending on the day).

Sophie is definitely getting older, but she's still the same sweet girl she's always been!

Auntie Lisa comes for a visit!

2009-11-22T13:33:00.003+02:00

Auntie Lisa came for a two-week visit to Zambia to celebrate a milestone birthday...and because I'm so nice, I won't say WHICH milestone birthday it was!

While we were in Livingstone (the family came down when I was down there for work), we got to see the zebras that roam around by the hotel. We saw the zebras walk by while we were in our hotel room, and ran outside to take a picture with them... Lisa didn't want to get any closer - even though I was egging her on!

And, one more time to Vic Falls - the water is slowing to a dribble because it's the end of the dry season, but we weren't able to talk across the top of the falls like last year because "they" let some water out of the dam, which kept us from being able to walk very far.

Water Crisis!!

2009-11-22T08:15:00.002+02:00

The other morning, I woke up, turned on the tap - and NO water! Not even a dribble!

The only place to find water was in our pool....so I trudged outside with a bucket, filled it with cold, slightly chlorinated water, and proceeded to take my "bath."

This experience made me think of the millions of people who don't have access to clean water - and can't just walk a few feet to a pool. Often, they have to walk miles to a water source and it could be a dirty, silty stream that has had people bathing in it, cattle walking through it and pooping in it ... As a result, they are very susceptible to serious illnesses which often lead to death.

But they need water to live - and if the dirty water source is the only place to get it, they use it. Even when they know that they have to boil the water to use it to drink, if they can't afford, or find, firewood to burn, they don't treat the dirty water... and they get sick.

Poverty creates a vicious cycle with limited choices.

What we have, that we take for granted:

Water coming out of a tap, in our homes - no need to walk long distances carrying heavy buckets of water on our heads

There is hot water AND cold water - no need to burn wood or charcoal to heat the water.

Water is clean enough to drink.

Plenty of water to use for household purposes and gardening - no need to ration it to avoid spending more hours to get water.

p.s. The issue with our lack of water was a broken water pump (to pump the water up to our holding tank - the big green tank seen in the photo). There were a couple of times when I had to take the "pool water" bath, but the pump finally got fixed.

Sophie Playing Basketball!

2009-11-22T07:58:00.001+02:00

As an after school activity, Sophie signed up for basketball.. Their team played once in a tournament (where they lost both games!), but they had fun! Bottom photo is of Sophie and two of her good friends Tino (left, from Zimbabwe) and Ava (right, from the U.S.)

Beautiful Flame Trees

2009-11-22T07:52:00.001+02:00

I wish my photos could do justice to the beautiful flame trees with their bright orange flowers, with yellow stamens. This tree belongs to our neighbor, but hangs over our driveway and I'm glad that I'm not the one who has to sweep up all the sticky flowers as they fall down!

Celebrity Trip!

2009-11-21T09:16:00.012+02:00

"The camera is rolling! Get out of the shot! Stop talking! Your shadow is in the way!" - Some of the many comments thrown my way during the shoot.

After the Net Launch, I traveled to Livingstone (home of Victoria Falls) where I met up with a film crew making a documentary of a South African singer named Yvonne Chaka Chaka. They had traveled in three-four countries in Africa filming her singing and also highlighting some of her charitable interests - and for Zambia, it was malaria (which is how I got involved).

Yvonne is a lovely lady and very professional. It was amazing to see the reaction of folks - in the city and in the villages - who knew her (I had no idea who she was). Even at the hotel, people were asking to have their picture taken with her. She's probably a bigger star than most American celebrities.

Visit to the Chiefteness

Yvonne (left) being greeted by the Chiefteness.

The first formal stop in any village is to the Chief to let him/her know the purpose of your trip and why you're in their village. Chiefs or chieftenesses are traditional leaders who have received the title from their parents. The chiefs are the ones who manage the land and determine who will get land and at what price. They are generally looked upon as the primary leader (over the government heads).

At the village we visited in Livingstone, there is an unusual chief arrangement. The chief was historically a woman, but in the mid 1900's it was decided that men should rule alongside the woman chief, so they now have joint "management." Here we are being received by the chiefteness in her royal office.

Since she was sitting in "her" chair, I'm assuming this is for the male chief. He must like lions! And I was wondering where they got those elephant tusks!

My celebrity photo with the Chiefteness. To the left are her two advisors, who acted more like bodyguards, they went everywhere with her. The cool thing about this chiefteness is that she decided that education is key to being a better ruler for her people, so she decided to go back to school (she's currently enrolled in grade 10) and even though she's 40 something with three children, she wants to set an example for her people.

Meeting Hupa - the REAL Star!

Hupa and her last child, Given.

Hupa is a RAPIDS caregiver and was the one I selected to be filmed with Yvonne. She is 54 and the mother of seven children. Her last two children were twins - but one (named Gift) died in 1994. Gift died of malaria. Hupa had refused to take him to the clinic because she thought that there had been a magic spell placed on the child. Even with her mother pleading, she refused... But now, she uses that experience to tell others about the ravages of malaria. Her other twin, Given is with her above and is thriving in grade 8.

Hupa is an amazing, strong woman. She looks after her five clients, works in the field to grow enough food for her family. She struggles to walk because she had polio when she was a child and when visiting her clients, her son carries her on the back of a bike. When I asked about her husband, the staff told me that this husband is her second husband - her first one passed away a while ago - and that he's an alcoholic and doesn't help at all around the house. As a single mother, I think she sought out support from a man who could help provide for her... and he did give her shelter, but I'm not sure what other ways he supports her...

Hupa holding her new net sitting in front of her house.

The Village That Received Nets

The film crew wanted to distribute nets to a village that really needed them. This one we identified was about 30 minutes from Livingstone - and according to the clinic records had had a very high number of malaria cases. When we went there to scout it out, we immediately saw why there were so many cases.

During the planting season, the people move closer to the river to take advantage of the water to plant their crops. Since there are so many elephants in the area who eat and destroy their crops, they sleep outside by their crops in little thatched roof pole structures - without mosquito nets. They need to protect their crops because without the harvest later in the year, they would have to wait another year before they have food - creating hunger and often, illness.

Here, after getting their nets, they show their excitement.

Of course, the major beneficiaries are healthy, beautiful children like this little girl!

Mosquito Net Distribution

2009-11-18T20:03:00.007+02:00

In mid October, I traveled to the Southern Province where World Vision/ RAPIDS was distributing the first shipment of 133,000 mosquito nets. In total, Zambia will receive 300,000+nets from World Vision U.S. Above is a malaria specialist from WV giving a speech at the launch.

There are so many funny, quirky, odd things about these types of events - and I've done many an event launch:

1) Note how the camera man stands RIGHT in the front of the audience, doesn't even care that he's blocking your view.

2) Speeches are long and boring - and read slowly and deliberately (yawn!).

3) All the guests of honor sit at the "head table" where it's important that they each get a glass to drink their bottled water, there needs to be a flower arrangement and, at the events where there is a higher level government official, a young girl needs to present a bouquet of flowers to the guest of honor.

I've been involved with events where we were scrambling at the last minute to find a flower arrangement, or to find glasses....at times, the protocol can be too much and my contrarian personality says "who cares???!!" but our Zambian staff remind me that it HAS to be that way - that's what protocol is all about!! It's a good learning time for me.

These events are meant to bring good PR to World Vision - and involve the government, but for me, the best part is the lives that are changed as a result of receiving the nets... see the next post.

Braces for Sophie and Peter

2009-10-18T17:45:00.004+02:00

We decided NOT to send the kids to college - and opted instead for braces!!! ha ha ha

There is a Zimbabwean orthodontist who was educated at BU. He comes, with his staff, from Harare to Zambia every four-six weeks...and his office is PACKED every time we go, so he has plenty of business!

Even in one short week, we can already see a difference in their teeth!!!

Peter - BEFORE

Peter - AFTER

Sophie - BEFORE

Sophie - AFTER

Some Wonderful People I've Met

2009-09-20T14:15:00.008+02:00

Through work, I've had the opportunity to meet many wonderful people. It's a joy to hear their stories and through this blog, share them with you.

Life is difficult and complicated - there are no easy fixes, but there are amazing people who soldier on in spite of setbacks and day to day struggles. Their faith is amazing and God is in their midst. Always a good reminder to me that you don't need "the stuff" to know God is alive!

On my most recent trip, I was in one of World Vision's project areas talking with people who had received gifts from our Gift Catalog. In most cases, the gifts - seeds, goats, cows, etc. made an incredible difference for the recipients. It's easy for us to write the $50 check (or put it on our credit card for the miles) - but for the people I met, it's been a life saver - literally.

Often, the poor aren't looking for a hand out (although there are certainly many who are), but most just need a little oomph to help them take the next step up out of poverty.

This is Maria who is 67 years old and lives with her two adult children along with their four children - AND six grandchildren whose parents (her children) have passed away. In 2001, she received four goats from World Vision. Those goats multiplied and and she was able to sell some to help pay for school fees and supplies for her grandchildren.

Then, all her goats died from a disease and she hasn't had that safety net to fall back on. Here, she's standing with her grandson, Stephen, 10 years old, who is a WV sponsored child. When asked if he's gotten any letters from his sponsor, he said no, but asked that we greet his sponsor and "let them know that I am happy here. I need a small bike, some shoes and a uniform." For all of you who are child sponsors, WRITE TO YOUR SPONSORED CHILD!

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Aggrey (57) and his wife Eunice (50, don't you love the way she's holding my hand?) have an amazing story. In 2001, they received seeds from World Vision and Aggrey was trained in seed multiplication, crop rotation, irrigation and growing better crops.

Before he received the seeds and training from World Vision they were often out of food. "I didn't know anything about agroforestry and I didn't know that plants could add nuturients to the soil. Before we got the seeds, we were malnourished and were unable to send our children to school. We ate one meal a day (usally wild roots and fruit) but now we eat three to four meals a day and can eat meat once or twice a week."

With his skills, Aggrey became a lead farmer who trains other farmers to grow higher yield crops.

His success has allowed him to send four of his daughters to college (which is a rarity to send so many children to college - and to choose to send daughters is exemplary!). The trickle down effect is that his children will earn higher incomes, provide better nutrition and education for their chidlren, and soon that cycle of poverty will be broken for generations to come...simply from the gift of seeds.

Pretty amazing, isnt it?

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Winifreda, above, is single (her husband left her 18 years ago) and she has six children 14 - 29 years old. She is standing in front of the garden she keeps where she received vegetable seeds in 2007 from World Vision.

"Before, we would eat only once a day and had no money to buy seed, so I was grateful to World Vision for the seed."

When she was able to buy seed, it was usually of poor quality and she said, "I would do my best but the results wouldn't be good enough for the work I did. Before I would only harvest 3-4 50kg bags of maize (corn), now I harvest 18-20 bags (with the WV seed)."

"Now my children are happy because they don't lack for anything."

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Rachel (r) sitting in front of her house with four of her five children. Her family used to suffer from malaria on a regular basis but when she received mosquito nets in 2007, her children have not suffered from malaria since she got the nets. She couldn't afford to buy a net (that costs about $5) - and had to choose between buying a net OR buying food for her family.

When I asked to see the nets (to make sure they were hung correctly), they confessed that one of the nets was being used as a door (see below)! But that once the rainy season starts - when the mosquitos come out - they'll hang it over their bed. I just learned that even if the nets aren't over the bed, the chemical that is on the nets helps keep the mosquitos away and if there is 60% coverage, it will eventually stop malaria.

Here's the net being used as a door!

Amazing people - wonderful lives...and I am blessed to have met them. I know our paths will cross again soon!

Fishing - Again - on the Lower Zambezi

2009-09-08T20:00:00.004+02:00

This past weekend, we took a one night trip to the Lower Zambezi (again) with the Wilkinsons (my boss, his wife and their 7 year old son, Isaac). We had a wonderful time - and the BEST part was that I caught a tiger fish...ok, so it wasn't very big, but it was the first fish I caught (and we had been fishing twice before and been skunked!).

Beautiful Sophie

Peter and Isaac goofing around - TOTALLY being kids

Oops, just so you know - photos of the kids were taken on an evening "family" boat ride - the guys I was with - Bruce, his friend Jonathan and John- were gracious to allow me - a woman - on the boat to fish!!! And, they told me I was LUCKY they allowed me to come along!! HA! They are pretty serious fishermen, so no mixing kids with fishing!

Fun time with the Bekkers!

2009-09-08T18:04:00.003+02:00

We had a great time with John and Lori Bekker...They had a great combination trip - Victoria Falls, safari in Chobe National Park (Botswana), Lusaka, Capetown, then back to Lusaka before heading to London - then home. This trip was part of their 30th anniversary celebration.

This was the closest we got to catching a fish...this small fish was our live bait - and the tiger fish chewed off its fin...No tiger fish...BUT we did spend a lot of time unraveling all our lines since we had four poles in the water at once!

Sophie's Journal:Bicycle Ambulances

2009-08-18T19:02:00.005+02:00

"Sophie, come on! We're going to be late!," my mom yelled. I really don't know why she yells if she has a sore throat, but I guess you need your lungs when you're a mother!

We were going to this place where my mom was taking pictures of how caregivers help their clients get to the hospital if they were sick or even pregnant (and ready to deliver their baby!).

One of the most common methods of transportation - the wheelbarrow.

RAPIDS Caregivers are volunteer men and women who are trained and equipped by RAPIDS (the USAID funded program my mom is working for) who help people affected by HIV/AIDS in their communities. They help take care of them by using a caregiver kit and giving them medicine, cleaning them, and even providing transport!

For pregnant women, you have to push the bike and have someone to help support the patient so he/she doesn't fall off.

When we got there, they set up for the pictures then told a little bit about how they transport their clients to the hospital. They said they either use a wheelbarrow, a bicycle, or their own back!

My mom was taking the pictures because she neede to show why caregivers need bicycle ambulances: metal structures attached to the bicycle seat post. They are long enough that patients can lay down and there is a canopy to cover them from the sun or rain (and give them privacy) and is good for things like carrying a baby or in this case a sick patient to the hospital faster!

As my mom was taking photos of how they get their clients to the hospital, I was taking this all in from start to finish! We are very fortunate to have cars when most Zambians, and many people around the world, are lucky to have a bike or wheelbarrow. We can get to places faster with a car than a wheelbarrow. One of the caregivers told us that one client was almost too late for the hospital and almost gave birth to twins on the side of the road!!!

But most Zambians don't even have ANY transport! My dad told me that once he gave a ride to a kid my age (12). The boy said he had to walk 4 miles to school and back 4 miles home! Yes, you sure would get your exercise, but you'd be tired once you were at school! Bottom line of this entry is that we are very fortunate to have a car, bike, or even both! But don't take your
car or bike because you might end up with a wheel barrow instead!

Editor/Miyon's note: First of all, in the interest of accuracy in reporting, I don't think I "yelled" at Sophie; I probably expressed some urgency, but "yelling"???!!...ok, there, now it's off my chest!

Secondly, it was great having Sophie along with me on this venture. I wasn't sure how much she was absorbing, but I can see that she got it!

In Zambia, transporting people and getting places is mostly done by walking. People walk everywhere (and there aren't any sidewalks!). There are very few cars, bikes, or motorcycles (there are more in Lusaka, but very few in the rural areas). Those are all too expensive for a country where 75% of the people live on less than $1 a day.

So they walk. The Caregivers said that walking and holding up a patient was the most common way to get people to the clinic. Because the Caregivers are known in their communities, people come to them at all hours of the day or night and ask them to help with transportation. One lady mentioned that as a woman she has diffculty hoisting people up onto the bike rack especially if there is no one there to help. Often the patient and the bike fall over!

Everyday things that we take for granted are struggles here.

Yet it's a blessing when Sophie - and now you - can better understand issues that the face the poor. And, it's a blessing that organizations like World Vision and committed Caregivers are working to care for the vulnerable in their communites.

Sophie Gets A New Do and The First Day of School

2009-08-16T14:08:00.003+02:00

Sophie got her hair cut (long layers - for those of you who know hair lingo) and she loves it!

The kids had their first day of school on August 12 and both seem to like their teachers. Sophie only has 14 kids in her class and Peter has 18. We've heard that their teachers are really good so we'll be curious to see how well they perform this year.

Sophie's Journal Entry

2009-08-09T13:52:00.005+02:00

Sophie wanted to take a stab at writing in the family blog about her last days of school; enjoy!

Just when i was settling into a comfy chair and getting a good read in New Moon, "Riiing.....the phone went off. "I'll get it", i said like always when the phone rang.

"Hello this is Sophie!" Hey Sophie its Angela!" she said in a sad but happy voice. "whats up", i asked wondering why she was calling me. "listen, i hope you will be sad but.. I'm moving..."WHAT?!" She went on, "yeah i know, i can't believe it either but my dad got a job in Maryland and we are all moving there this summer!"....then there is just a silence...i mean, what am i supposed to say after that?" I finally have enough air to say my "I'm sorry" and "I will see you at school".

When i put down the phone i went straight to my room. i had to sit down. Really, i didn't know how to react to that phone call or what to say. i was just stunned; like i got hit by a block! Confused, sad, angry, stunned, worried! But, everybody felt it at the international school. Friends would be leaving because their parent's contracts would be up and i just had to except the fact that this is how you live overseas.

Almost half my class was leaving and moving around the world; places like Cambodia, America, Scotland, South Africa, and other countries. When it got down to the last day of school, everyone was crying! They had been with many of the people that were leaving for a long time over the years. Even though i only came to Zambia the last school year, i felt myself shedding a few tears.

Everybody was just so close to everyone else that we all had a hard a hard time saying goodbye. This past school year, everybody went through a lot; parties, sleepovers, and even school! Our class was kinda like a play; we all had parts in the school year and even though there might be empty spots, 'the play must go on'. This concept i experienced at school was how you lived overseas and i just had to get used to a different way of living!

Zanzibar!!!!

2009-08-08T08:16:00.011+02:00

Wow, we had such a fantastic time in Zanzibar...an island off the coast of Tanzania, often called the Spice Island. This trip was a Christmas present for the kids in lieu of a wii...in hindsight it would have been cheaper to buy them the wii, but the memories they'll have will last them a lifetime!

We flew from Lusaka to Nairobi (via Lilongwe, Malawi) on a flight that left Lusaka at midnight - and got into Zanzibar at 10am. We were tired when we arrived, but the kids did great on less than 4 hours of sleep!

We stayed at a great little place with 6 bungalows - the one below faced out to the sea, ours was two rooms away from this one.

Our first morning we went for a walk and saw lots of people walking back and forth from the shore to boats in the ocean. They would go to a boat (not sure if they were assigned to certain boats, or just picked the one that had fish), but they would load up their five gallon buckets with kapenta (small fish) that the fishermen had caught that night. The full buckets probably weighed about 30 pounds and the people were walking very quickly. We learned that they got paid 500 schillings per load, so clearly they were motivated to get in as many loads as possible. They would dump their loads in a pile on a plastic sheet and the fish would get cooked in boiling water, then laid out in the sun to dry.

Fantastic, beautiful doors are abundant in Stonetown. This particular door is an Indian made door because it has the pointy brass knobs on it which were put in to keep the elephants from breaking down the door! Of course, if you saw how narrow the streets are in Stonetown, there is no way an elephant would have enough room to charge! John liked the pointy things so much, he decided to buy one and will put it up on our door in Tacoma...to keep all those pesky stray elephants wandering down 27th St. from charging our door!

This is a pretty typical store front - lots of knick knacks and baubles!

Peter was on a mission to buy some tennis shoes so we stopped at each and every shop; but in the end, ended up with nothing. I've never seen so many shoes wrapped in plastic!

The Stonetown market sells vegetables, fish, meat and of course, spices...here's the butcher cutting some meat for a customer.

Hmmm, guess what animal this was?!

We enjoyed our time in Zanzibar with Todd, Teresa and Kent Silver. Here we are at the end of our spice tour - where we were amazed at what spices looked like in their natural state, we couldn't identify most of the spice plants other than vanilla bean!

At the end of our spice tour, we went to the ocean for a swim in this warm, beautifully green ocean.

One day we went out snorkeling...As you can see Peter is ready to jump in, but the rest of us were a bit more cautious since it was cold out and quite windy. But, we saw some amazing fish and coral (unfortunately the coral is being depleted at quite a fast rate).

Our major mode of transport was via a dala dala - a truck with two benches in the back. It was fun to ride with the locals and it only cost us 1,000 schillings (about 75 cents) to ride into town (vs 5,000 schillings for a taxi).

The Silvers left us to go on a safari in Tanzania, so we opted to head to the east coast of the island to a small village called Paje. We found white sand beaches where the sand was super fine - and the ocean was a beautiful jade green. The tide went out quite a ways, then came in right up to the bulkhead of our bungalows.

High tide. John and Peter are waiting for the tide to go out so they can do some beach combing. The shells on the beach are fantastic!

This guy had just caught these octopus and I think he sold them to the owner (a Japanese lady) of our bungalows since I noticed octopus on the menu for the two nights we were there.

Every day ladies were in the water gathering seaweed. Here, they're dragging big bags full of seaweed that they lay in the sun to dry.

It was a tough life having to recline on these chairs with this view, but we suffered through it!

There are so many other picture we took that I didn't include here...if you're feeling ambitious, you can see them here: http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/JulyZanzibar?authkey=Gv1sRgCMmv4e-WjYj5qQE#. (The first few photos are of the Silvers trip to a World Vision project where they got to see some of the work being done by our Zambian staff.)

Nairobi, Kenya

At the tail end of our trip, we went to Nairobi for three days to visit our friends the Simpsons (Sharon is a good friend of mine at World Vision US) and the Leists - who were just finishing up their one year stint with International Justice Mission.

With the Leist family

It's not often you're in a major city and see cattle crossing the road, walk through a gas station and keep walking.

We went to a giraffe farm where John wanted to see how long a giraffe's tongue really is - so he forced this guy to work for his pellet of food.
This was gross - but Peter put the pellet in his mouth and the giraffe licked it out! YUCK!

We had a fantastic time - and will always remember our time with friends and the new experiences we shared as a family!

Fishing on the Lower Zambezi

2009-08-07T19:54:00.005+02:00

In early July we went for a short weekend trip to visit another Zambian highlight: the lower Zambezi River where tiger fishing reigns supreme! Tiger fish have lots of sharp teeth and apparently are a good fighting fish! We wouldn't know because we didn't catch a single fish! Our boat driver said that it was too cold so the fish were deep in the water...

The most exciting moment was when Peter reeled in his line - and we found that half of his little fish bait had been chewed off...Still great time to be on the river...

Peter fishing from the front of our little boat

Our boat driver/guide took us to his lucky fishing places,

but we still got nothin!

Sophie spent her time reading - while the rest of us fished.

John was really hoping to catch the BIG one...

Since we didn't have any luck fishing, we were happy to see the elephants

coming for water on the banks of the river

Bathing beauties!

Most places along the Zambezi have crocodiles - and the place where we stayed was no exception. The managers dog got too close to the river and his rear leg was chewed by a croc but he was able to move around pretty well on his three legs!

Unusually Large Poinsettias

2009-06-29T07:58:00.002+02:00

It's wintertime here and the poinsettas are blooming...it's just shocking how BIG they are! This is one of two large poinsettia bushes in our front yard.

Firsts - in my lifetime; only here in Zambia

2009-06-28T17:30:00.004+02:00

This week, I experienced things I never in my wildest dreams could have imagined.

1. I took a golf lesson and used the driving range.

This was my first golf lesson...but even more unique was hitting on the driving range. There weren't any fake grass mats with the little plastic tees, we were basically on a rough patch of grass/weeds outside the entrance.

My teacher called to a young guy who was hanging around the course. I wasn't quite sure why he was there until he ran out into the field and I realized that his job was to shag the balls I hit!

Since I'm not that great a golfer - I hit the first ball to the left, then to the right and this poor chap is busy running from side to side, up and back...

Also, without the plastic tube tees, my teacher would fluff up some grass and put the ball on top of the grass...and, of course, there's no machine that pours out balls into a metal basket - we used the balls we had and hoped the guy shagging the balls got them all!

It's interesting to note that about 15-20 years ago, there was a greater emphasis on sports and some very good athletes came out of Zambia. My teacher was one who benefitted from the opportunity to learn to play. Now, there are hardly any Zambian kids who play golf (although the course where I had my lesson has taught a few kids from the local compound).

For only $12 for an hour's lesson, it was totally worth the lesson AND the experience! Oh, almost forgot, I paid the ball retriever $3. Not bad...

2. Second, I paid off a police officer - first time EVER!

I was pulled over for speeding...I don't know how fast I was going, but I was behind a big truck and I know that there is NO way they could shoot (what I'm assuming is a poor quality) radar gun at the truck - and again at me, within a split second.

So, after pulling me over, the lady cop - Yvonne - sidles over with a big smile on her face and tells me I was speeding. I said, "Really, I can't believe that. How much is the ticket?" "It's 180,000 kwacha" (which is about $36).... I started to protest that I don't have that much money on me, but all the while, I could sense that she was willing to let me go for a bit of "lunch money." I'd heard enough stories from people who just gave the cops their "lunch money" and drove away - and, the other folks (those with more integrity!) who insisted on an officially written ticket, so they don't become part of the corruption that is so rampant in this country.

Clearly, I was willing to aid and abet the corruption. Who knows what will be next in my life of crime! It's a slippery, downhill slope...I need help!

3. Third,we saw a polo cross match.

Imagine this - three people to a team, all riding on horses turning on a dime and galloping at full speed - holding a lacrosse stick (slightly rounder shape from what we're used to) trying to throw a rubber bouncy ball in between the goal posts.

It was an amazing sight and very fun to watch. Who knew that such a sport existed - and that they play it here in Zambia- one of the poorest country in the world!!!

Horses can be purchased and the labor to care for the horses is cheap - so it makes it more affordable than in the U.S. and people who like to ride get into this sport because it's fast paced and fun.

John's boss is the one who built the pitch (the field) - cleared the land, seeded it, put in sprinklers and built a clubhouse.

The guy on the left has the ball and he's looking to pass it to his #1 player. Only the #1 player can shoot the ball into the goal - the rest of the guys are trying to keep the #1 player from getting the ball.

The guy in the front is the #1 player so he's trying to get to the goal ahead of the others -- because he has to bounce the ball on a line about 20 feet from the goal, catch it, then throw it into goal.

End of school

2009-06-25T19:45:00.003+02:00

Sophie got some great middle school awards: Academic Achievement in Humanities, Best Sportsmanship and Most Valuable Player for her soccer team! Yeah Sophie!

Peter just finished a project in class where students came together as a team and made a game. He and his buddy, Tee, made a game asking questions about landmarks, oceans, land, and explorers. One question was "What state is the Space Needle in?"... it was impressive to see what the kids in the class created...

Now that school is over, most of our friends are heading back to their home countries - it feels like Lusaka clears out completely...we'll need to find new friends since all of ours are leaving!!! It's an odd lifestyle where every 2-4 years, a big group of people leaves to move to another country on yet another assignment...and every summer, people head home for summer break. It'll be an interesting time!

Do you test your child for HIV?

2009-06-16T19:49:00.004+02:00

The news crew interviewing a sponsored child.

I went with a television crew and World Vision staff from the UK to one of our projects where they collected stories for a five part series on diseases that kill children under five years old. One of those killer diseases is HIV/AIDS and we met with a mother who wanted to have her two month old child tested for HIV.

This little two month old got his heel pricked - to squeeze out five drops of blood for the HIV test.

The test can only be read in a lab about 8 hours away and according to the clinic manager, she still hadn't recieved results from tests she had sent in five months earlier! Imagine being a parent waiting for 6 months or more to know if your child is HIV positive...

When we asked the mom how she would feel if the results showed that her son was HIV positive she said, "I know it will be ok and that he will be fine."

I was a bit suprised by that response because I thought she'd say that it would be sad, unbearable, or devastating, but she went on to say that both she and her husband are currently on anti-retroviral therapy and they are both leading strong, healthy lives, so she felt certain that IF her son was HIV positive, he too would be ok.

Where I saw death staring me in the face...she sees hope because of the medical treatment that is available to her and new son.

How to Make a Plastic Bag Soccer Ball

2009-06-16T17:47:00.005+02:00

Peter and the brothers decided to make a soccer ball out of "plastics" as the Zambians call it - or plastic bags as we know it.

First you take a bunch of plastic bags and wad them up very tightly and wrap one bag around the whole lot of them.

Then you take take parts of a mealie meal bag (woven out of plastic strands) and braid them (see Mutale and Peter above) - these will be used to wrap around the wad of plastics...

Then, you get all the brothers together to help untangle the long string...

Mutale, the expert tier, puts the finishing touches to keep the ball intact.

Ta dah! The finished product!

Sophie in "Annie!"

2009-05-18T19:41:00.004+02:00

Sophie (3rd from right) played one of the orphans in Annie this spring. It's the first time she's been in a play - and it was fun for her to try her hand at acting (she had five lines! The longest one was, "Gee, Annie on the radio, she's famous coast to coast!") and singing... Not sure about the Mexican-serape outfits...

Here are the orphans in their "beds" waiting for Annie to start singing "Maybe..."

Sophie Cuts Her Hair Again...

2009-05-18T19:21:00.002+02:00

Sophie decided to take the scissors to her bangs...and this is the result- although most days she puts her hair in a pony tail with some bobby pins on top of her head to hold her bangs back...so not sure why she cut them in the first place... :-)

Our Great African Road Trip

2009-04-13T19:21:00.021+02:00

We took a two week, 3,500 mile car trip south through Zambia, south into Botswana (to Chobe and Maun), then headed west to Namibia (Windhoek, Sussosvlei, Swakopmund and Etosha). We saw some beautiful scenery, lots of open land and amazing animals in the game parks. Pictures tell the best story of what we saw...

This SMALL ferry shuttled us from Zambia to Botswana. The ferry only held one semi truck and our car for the 5 minute crossing. The river was so high that they had to bring in dirt at the landing site which closed the ferry for two days causing a back up of 100 trucks waiting on the Botswana side to take the ferry over to Zambia!

In Chobe game park (Botswana), we watched these two elephants playing.

The afternoon light caught this big guy out strolling and looking for food.

Baboons galore settling in the nice warm sand...in the middle of the road. They really gave us the stink-eye when we drove by since they were forced to move.

An elephant's foot print compared to Peter's foot!

My pet project was to take a photo every hour of our trip...many of the photos looked like this, so I won't bore you with more of the same... Ok, just ONE more...because I love exclamation marks!

On our travel days, we tried to get up early to get on the road (often by 6am) ...and spent about 6-8 hours a day driving. The kids kept up on their beauty sleep!

Climbing to the top of one of the dunes at Sossusvlei, Namibia...stunning! Peter was the first one to the top... John and I pulled up the rear panting and gasping for air! It's hard walking uphill in sand!

The best part of climbing up - is running down!!

We did a short hike in this canyon but had to stop because of all the water pooled at the bottom. We opted not to walk through the water for fear of getting bilharzia, a waterborne disease.

One of our highlights was quad biking on the sandunes outside of Swakopmund. We had a guide who drove in front of us - it was a blast going over the steep hills.

Next, we drove north up to Etosha National park. This was a wonderful watering hole where we saw zebras, giraffes, wildebeasts and antelope. We visited at the tail end of the rainy season, so the animals weren't as plentiful as usual, but it was awesome for us!

Ever wonder how giraffes drink water? Amazing contortion...

Gotta love the ingenuity...no front legs to the chair, not a problem, just find a tire! We were waiting for our car to get washed - 3 guys, 3 rags, a bucket and a hose...all for $1.50.

On our way home, an hour and a half south of Lusaka, on Easter Sunday, our car broke down (the water pump went bad) and we had several guadian angels who helped us out. A man driving the exact same car passed us and then turned around and offered to tow us into town. One of my co-workers who has family in the town was able to find a mechanic (see the "garage" above - they basically work in a dirt alley) - AND we found an open parts store that carried the exact water pump we needed (again, this is all on Easter Sunday)! The clincher was that we didn't have any Zambian money (kwacha) and neither our ATM card or credit card were working and all we had left was a $100 bill. Thankfully, my co-worker had money that he loaned us (we needed about $150 which most people, including me, don't carry around). Truly, all these saints were Easter miracles and gifts from God.

We loved the adventure and can hardly wait for our next African experience!

Limited Opportunities

2009-03-28T08:54:00.007+02:00

I met this young woman who is 32 years old. She learned she was HIV positive when she went to the hospital to deliver her now three month old son, Joshua (all pregnant women are now tested before they deliver). Joshua went on ARVs before she did - but both are thriving.

She is married and currently lives with her mother in her village about 4 hours from where her husband lives. When she got sick and was unable to care for herself and her son, she moved back to the village with her mother. Her unemployed husband continues to seek out work.

Her one plea was for milk. She knows she shouldn't breastfeed her child since she's HIV positive - but milk is expensive - especially when you have no money. What would you do in that situation - you're too weak to work but your baby needs to be fed...Tough decisions and not a lot of options.

This widow lives with her three children - aged 13, 11 and 7. She is standing in front of her house (which is about 14' x 14'). When asked what she had eaten that day - she said nothing...when asked what she ate the day before, she said "nothing." When I asked her how she generates income, she said that about twice a month, she will weed someone else's land. She get's paid 20 cents for a 1 meter wide by 50 meter long strip (think Olympic sized swimming pool). She generally does 5 rows a day - giving her a total of $1.00 a day. She only can do this about twice a month - which means her total monthly income is $2.00.

She is in a very difficult situation with little opportunity to break out of her poverty. This is the hard reality for so many people around the world. Her Caregiver, Mary, acknowledged that this situation is worse than many of her clients. Whenever she has extra food, Mary will give from what little she has to help out this family. Compassion in action.

An amazing kid

2009-03-28T07:57:00.005+02:00

Traveling by bike with Caregivers

I recently traveled with a group of donors who have supported the vision of a now 14 year old kid from Arizona - Austin.

When Austin was 9, he heard about the plight of HIV/AIDS and the many kids who have been left behind when their parents passed away. He decided to combine his love of basketball with fundraising - and asked other kids to join him in shooting hoops - and raising money for HIV/AIDS work. To date (5 years), his organization - all kid run - has raised nearly $ 1 million.

He came to Zambia to officially open an HIV and AIDS counseling and testing lab in Sinazongwe, in the Southern Province of Zambia. We also walked and biked alongside Caregivers who are caring for children left vulnerable due to HIV/AIDS - and people who are HIV positive.

The Caregivers - Mary and Richard (left) are caring for Midia (center) who is HIV positive along with her three-month old son, Joshua - both are on anti-retroviral meds. Maxeem (right) was the Caregiver for Richard - who is also HIV positive. Richard decided to become a Caregiver after being cared for by Maxeem - and realizing he wanted to help others in the same situation he's in. This is truley Zambians caring for Zambians.

This is the rainy season (although you wouldn't know it from this photo) - but this normally dry river bed was flush with water (it had rained the night before) - and our car got stuck! It took about 3 hours to get it out. Two weeks earlier, in another part of the World Vision ADP, a WV car was crossing something similiar when a torrent of water came down and pushed the WV vehicle over six times! Thankfully, the three staff in the vehicle left with only minor bruises and cuts.

Our New Vocabulary

2009-03-28T07:46:00.004+02:00

We have a whole new vocabulary/words that have been integrated into our talk (when we don't use the "right" word, we aren't understood!):

Old: air-conditioner

New: air-con

Old: swim suit

New: swim costume

Old: swim meet

New: swim gala (gah-lah)

Old: car trunk

New: boot

Old: cleats

New: boots

Old: traffic light

New: robots

Old: flip flops

New: tropicals

Old: pants

New: trousers

There are many more words, but we can't think about them right now because we need some coffee!! More later!

Opening of a Coordinated Response Center

2009-03-09T17:03:00.006+02:00

Grace, the manager of the Coordinated Response Center being interviewed for ZNBC (the one TV station in Zambia) - telling about the services the center will offer the community.

World Vision opened a Coordinated Response Center (CRC) for gender based violence in Mazabuka - a highway town about 1 1/2 hours south of Lusaka.

Gender based violence (GBV) is a big problem here in Zambia - and this center would allow people (mostly women) to access legal, medical, police and counseling services all in one location instead of having to travel to different parts of town to talk with the right person, waiting, then going to the next service provider.

The local district hospital offered up a block of three rooms which were cleaned, painted, furnished and are now ready to serve those who have suffered from violence.

I was talking with a woman who illustrated how GBV became part of her personal story - and how even her educated parents can justify violence.

This woman was beaten by her husband early on in her marriage and told her parents about it - they immediately called them to the house to talk about what happened and asked the husband how/why he beat their daughter.

It turns out that the husband beat her because she was unwilling to "meet his needs" when he wanted it. When the parents heard this - the tables were immediately turned. They were no longer angry with the husband, now they were angry with their daughter for not submitting to her husband's wishes!

This is a very male dominated society and despite the fact that women run this country--they are the backbone of the family and community structures--they are still considered second class citizens.

Update: since the CRC center opened, I heard they've been flooded with clients who never knew their rights or how to access these services! Encouraging news!

My Co-Workers

2009-02-22T07:57:00.005+02:00

I've had some interesting conversations with three of my co-workers. After talking with the first one about the death of his sister in law I thought "that's a tough situation" - then I hear about another staff who tells me that his brother in law is beating his own mother and I think, "wow, that's rough" - then the third has to go to court to try and get back payment for rent from one of the family rentals.

I began to wonder: is this normal life in Zambia - filled with these types of tragedies - or is it harmonic convergence that all these situations took place within two weeks of each other - and all with my staff...

Death of a sister in law: one co-worker's brother and sister in law were married for 13 years. She had been drinking more and more...they say she took her own life by drinking poison. The tragedy is that her family is blaming my co-worker's brother for her death saying he killed her! To add insult to injury, her parents came back to the brother to say that he owed them several thousand dollars from the original dowry...why they never collected it before is unknown.

Mom beating: Anothe co-worker is newly married living with his wife, her brother and their mother. He asked me for permission to go to the clinic - when I asked why, he said that his hand was injured from beating up his brother in law. When I asked what happened, he said that his brother in law had come home drunk and started beating up the mom and pushing her around. He stepped in to help out and hurt his hand in the process (this guy is a skinny 20 something guy and I doubt he's ever hit anyone !). After this altercation, the brother in law was sent up north and since then has apologized and said he would mend his ways! His drinking/drug habit was so bad that he was stealing stuff from the family members to sell for cash for drugs/drink.

Rental: My third co-worker has been a volunteer for World Vision for the past several months. He needed time off to go to court to represent his family to get a renter to pay back rent. He seemed to feel the court system would work...I wasn't as confident! As an aside, this young man (28 years old) comes to work every day in a tie - and I found out that he was only making 30,000 kwacha a day (about $6) - that amount is what they pay for daily laborers! I had to fight for him to get a raise...now he's making 70,000 kwacha (about $14 a day)...once this global financial crisis is over, I'll definitely be pulling for him to become a permanent employee - he's a great worker!

These three situations made me realize that life is hard here, even for "professionals" - every day brings a different challenge and yet they are able to adapt, adjust and move on. Their faith and their willingness to keep moving are an inspiration.

Victoria Falls - again...

2009-02-21T14:32:00.003+02:00

I had the wonderful opportunity to go to Victoria Falls - again - but just for the weekend. A World Vision U.S. colleague was here doing some work for World Vision Zambia and wanted to see the Falls. Because the drive is so long we opted to fly (1 hour flight vs 8 hour drive!).

The pilot took a rare turn OVER the falls, so I captured it from my seat - it was really amazing to see it from the air - it gave me a better perspective on the length of the falls.

The mighty Zambezi River flowing down into Victoria Falls (right).

Victoria Falls - the road in front goes to Zimbabwe and over

the gorge (center) there's a bridge where the

crazy people bungee jump!

Can you see the double rainbow?

We went on a game drive through the smallest game park in Zambia and didn't see much wildlife. When we commented on this to the bell hop, he "oh did you see the zebras and giraffes that are on the hotel grounds?" What??? He drove us around the hotel property in a golf cart and lo and behold, we saw zebras nibbling the grass at the hotel next to ours.

Our hotel - the Zambezi Sun. Unfortunately, didn't have enough free time to lounge, but it was a beautiful hotel and close enough to the Falls that we could walk there from the hotel.

Sophie's first school dance

2009-02-21T14:09:00.002+02:00

Sophie and her friends - Sophia (L) and Sophie (C)

(what a trio: Sophia, Sophie and Sophie!) before the dance.

How did we get old enough to see our kids go off to a school dance??? The American School had a middle school dance - only 6th, 7th and 8th graders...The girls had a good time - it sounded like the girls danced with the girls - and the boys...well, they were boys!

Peter Turns 10 Years Old!

2009-01-26T18:52:00.006+02:00

Peter and John celebrate their birthdays (Jan 24 and Jan 21 respectively) with homemade carrot cake. There is NO cream cheese available here for the frosting...thankfully, a friend came to the rescue with a frozen box! Tasted yummy!

Peter turned 10 on January 24th...where did the time go to? I know people have always said, "cherish these years because it will be gone all too soon" and now I know what they're talking about!!!

Peter had two buddies here for a sleepover (two others were invited but couldn't come). Johannes is half Norwegian and half Zimbabwean. He spends his winters and summers in Norway and speaks fluent Norwegian...but has lived in Africa all his life. Peter's other friend, Hessel, is Dutch by origin, but was born, and has only lived, in Zambia. His parents run a huge rose farm here and supply the grocery stores and even export their roses.

The boys - and John - played our created version of broom ball - using a "sweeper" or broom made out of grasses tied together at the top with a bike innertube. The ball is a whiffle ball - and the goalies use the more traditional push brooms (not sure why, but that's how the game developed).

Peter continues to be a GREAT kid - engaging and entertaining. May his entry into double digits be filled with lots of new exciting adventures and a deepening love for God.

Mountain Biking!

2009-01-26T17:59:00.003+02:00

We took a family biking trip - outside "the city"and, it doesn't take long to get out in the country!

We were quite the sight - or at least I'm imagining we were by the number--and longevity--of stares we got! I guess they don't see many mzungus (foreigners) and to see FOUR of us, all peddling along with our helmets on must have been quite an unusual sight. People just stared and stared...if I would have turned around, I'm sure they would have been staring!

We had a great ride - on a dirt path that is normally reserved for walkers (no cars), then the path switched to a rocky, muddy, slick path going downhill, across a small creek, and through some tall grass (now that it's the rainy season, everything has grown A LOT!)... I was sure we were lost, but stumbled upon two kids with their bamboo poles going fishing. They confirmed that we were headed in the right direction...

Now we need to find new biking paths. With so many paths cutting across fields created by walkers and bikers, we shouldn't have any problems. We just have to find places where we won't be such spectacles!! :-)

What we do in our spare time!!!

2009-01-26T17:09:00.002+02:00

Sophie and I decided to do a little mud facial (thanks to Lori Bekker's New Zealand mud)...it felt GREAT, but was it life changing? Did I get rid of all my wrinkles? Are pimples banished forever? No, of course not...but Sophie and I had a fun time doing it!!

Used to be different – now it seems normal…

2009-01-02T20:37:00.007+02:00

Just like buying fruit at the Farmer's Market!

When we arrived in Zambia, we were aware of so many things that were new and different, now they’ve become part of our everyday life and we hardly notice them!

Here’s what we’ve gotten used to:
1. 95% of the time we get in on the right side of the car to drive. The other 5% of the time, we just act like we meant to get in on the passenger side.

2. Seeing women walking on the street wearing orange housecoats with brooms slung over their shoulders and an orange cone on their heads no longer concerns us (they’re ladies hired to sweep the streets).

3. When we’re walking, we automatically step well off the road when we hear a car coming knowing the cars won’t move over an inch (even if there’s room on the road).

4. We know our way around our neighborhood

5. Peter has mastered the art of Zambian English – even if I say the same words, I don’t say them with the right intonation/accent – and people can’t understand me!

6. It’s now second nature to brush our teeth with bottled water and only drink bottled water (although it still kills me to have to pay for water in a restaurant).

7. We rinse our fruit and veggies in a bleach water solution before eating.

8. We mostly remember to turn on the “geezer” -- the hot water heaters that heat our shower water, kitchen water, etc.—otherwise, we’re stuck with cold water.

9. Sleeping under a mosquito net.

10. Love having Virginia (our housekeeper) – every day (ok not EVERY day – just Monday – Friday and half day on Saturday) our house is cleaned, dishes washed, clothing laundered and ironed – it’s such a stress reliever!

11. We’ve resigned ourselves to no recycling – although we do what we can, when we can.

12. We’ve gotten used to being called “Madame” and “Sir” by Virginia – not sure if she even knows our name!

13. We are grateful that English is the primary language - and that this is a predominantly Christian country.

14. Geckos running around our living room walls, bugs crawling on the floor are no longer huge gross- outs.

We continue to be amazed at:
1. The things people carry on their bikes: huge 50 pound bags of charcoal – not just one bag, but FIVE bags!, sofas, lumber, chickens – and our first sighting of a live goat tied on the back rack! (I’m pretty sure he knew his destiny).

2. How hard working the women are – everywhere you go, they are the ones out in the fields working, caring for children, working at the markets, etc.

3. Stop signs and stop lights don’t mean anything to some people – they just plow through the intersection.

4. The weather – sunny days, huge rain storms, thunder like we’ve never heard before…

5. How inefficient the service is – you have to pay all your bills in person, the internet is spotty (at best) and always very slow, you’ll wait forever in grocery store lines with no effort by the cashier to move faster, etc

6. How friendly people are – Zambians have great senses of humor!

7. Massage house calls: we just heard about a masseuse, Precious, who comes to the house... Peter decided to have a quick 10 minute rub down - and LOVED it!

We continue to be concerned for:
1. Poverty: nearly 73% of the Zambian people live on less than $1 a day with little access to a better life. For instance, there are two (always packed) malls in Lusaka, but only 2% of the people in Lusaka actually shop there.

2. AIDS: now that people are living longer with ARV (anti-retro viral) medicine, they are no longer struggling to survive because of their illness – now they need jobs to help them survive.

3. Education: many children in rural communities have very little access to education and so many teachers have died of AIDS...

4. Water: safe drinking water and access to water is still a huge concern for many people around the country. Water provides healthier lives and helps grow food...

Please continue to pray for the people of Zambia and the work that is being done here to support and care for them.

Victoria Falls - the sequel...2 months later

2008-12-24T22:27:00.006+02:00

Vic Falls in October

Vic Falls in December

We went to Vic Falls a month ago at the tail end of the dry season - and then went last week, well into the rainy season, what a difference in water volume! We could hear the noise - and see the spray from a mile away...

We got soaked from the spray coming off the falls - and from a bit of rain that fell during part of our time there. Thankfully, it was sunny after that and we were able to dry off. Some male tourists had their shirts off (not a pretty sight) in an attempt to keep their shirts dry for later.

Later that afternoon, we went on a sunset dinner cruise (although the clouds made the actual sunset impossible to see) - but saw hippos, some birds, and one croc...so much for wildlife!

Our sunset dinner cruise on the Zambezi River

Here's a link to more pictures from our trip: http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/VictoriaFallsChristmas2008

What does Christmas look like in Zambia?

2008-12-13T17:55:00.003+02:00

No endless ads on TV
No newspaper inserts
No mail coupons (because there's no mail delivery!)
No email blasts (although I'm getting plenty from Toys R Us and amazon!)
No Christmas tree lots
No Christmas lights on homes
No ringing bells outside grocery stores
No cold, crisp weather (tshirts, shorts and birks still rule the day)

But:

Yesterday we saw a black and very skinny Santa handing out candy at one of the malls (AND telling kids to remember to brush their teeth!)
Saw a white, skinny Santa at the other mall
The Salvation Army brass band (made up of high school students) was playing Christmas music at the mall
The Shop Rite grocery store clerks and baggers are wearing red Santa hats
Christmas music is playing in the stores
Grocery stores are selling tinsel, garland, and food packaged in baskets
The street hawkers who accost you at every stop light are now selling small Christmas trees in addition to their usual wares: umbrellas and towels with the Zambian flag, phone chargers, phone cards, tomatoes, etc.

There is Christmas commercialization and you notice it most at the two malls in town: Arcades and Manda Hill - that are frequented by ex-pats and wealthier Zambians. The malls are in full Christmas mode - they even have a gift wrapping service!

But when the poverty level is so high here in Zambia, I don't know what Christmas looks like for the 73% of Zambians who are living on less than a dollar a day. My guess is it looks like every other day...

With the planting season in full swing, most people are out digging and planting seeds hoping that the rains won't flood out their crops like they did last year, and that they'll have enough food to feed their families.

Living in the city, I need to be intentional to remember the many Zambians who yearn for a better life but are trapped in poverty... may their Christmas be blessed and joyful in their own way...

Zambia Water Launch Event

2008-12-12T20:25:00.007+02:00

The Launch event kicked off with ladies from the community dancing and singing for the event. We set the tent up (in case it rained) on a school soccer field - and you gotta love the cows and donkeys that use the field for grazing!

This last week, World Vision Zambia kicked off a major water project funded by a very generous U.S. donor. The $10 million, 5-year program is for four countries in Southern Africa: Zambia, Malawi, Lesotho and Mozambique. The ceremony we held was to kick off the Zambia water program - the first country in World Vision's SAWI (Souther Africa Water Initiative).

As part of my WVZ job, I helped organize a kick off event in honor of the donor, and to formalize the program and show the importance of our partners: the government, other NGOs and the communities that will benefit.

The Deputy Minister (the U.S. equivalent of Under Secretary) and donor, Terry, cutting the ribbon to kick off the drilling of the first well in the Zambia water program.

The event went really well - although it wasn't without its issues (as any event planner knows, there's always something!). The government protocol was very tricky and difficult to manuever: who speaks first, who sits by who, did you buy a bouquet of flowers to present to the minister?, I've prepared a speech, so why isn't my name on the program?, I'm leaving because you clearly don't respect me and my position enough to include me, you can't pray for the meal until the District Commissioner is here, and on and on...

The GOOD news is that in spite of all the government protocol issues - this village will receive a borehole well and women won't have to walk for miles to get water -- dirty water, which the ONLY water that's available here.

I was in this same village in October (a very dry month here) and it was a struggle for the women to get water. They were getting their water from a hole in the bottom of a dry river bed - and it wasn't even potable- which means that many people struggle with diaarhea and dysentery which is most dangerous for children under five years old.

From my October trip: women fetching water from the bottom of a dry riverbed

World Vision drilled a well in that same community. Water was struck and people were so happy they spontaneously started dancing under the water!

This village and many others will have their lives changed forever because of clean water - children will live longer, families will be able to grow crops to feed their families and even sell any excess to generate income, women will have time to do other income generating activities since they won't be spending hours fetching water... in short - individual lives and communities will thrive and become healthier in so many ways!

Sophie Turns 12!!

2008-12-12T15:32:00.005+02:00

Sophie is in her final year of being a "tween" and we will enjoy every day of it before she turns 13!!

The annual cookie decorating tradition continued with three of Sophie's friends from school: Victoria, Sophia and Kamila. They came for a sleepover (which are very popular here in Lusaka) had pizza and decorated cookies!

L to R: Kamila, Sophia, Victoria and Sophie

What's amazing is where the girls come from. Only one is American - but in name only. She was born in the U.S. but when I asked her where she's lived she said, "Uganda, Benin, South Africa, Malawi and Zambia"... amazing and she's only 12! Victoria is from Uruguay - but has never lived there and has spent most of her life in Africa. And Kamila is half Bolivian and half Canadian and has only lived in Bolivia and Africa.

So, even though our kids go to the American International School - the emphasis really is on "international" - even for the American kids!

Happy Birthday Sophie!!

What do I do for work?

2008-12-03T19:51:00.005+02:00

I've been asked what kind of work I'm doing here in Zambia - and thought I'd share a bit of what I've been doing lately.

Half of my time (I use the phrase "half" loosely) is spent working for RAPIDS (Reaching HIV/AIDS Affected People with Integrated Development and Support) - the largest PEPFAR (President's Emergency Program for AIDS Relief) funded project here in Zambia.

The other 50% of my time is spent managing the Communications and Marketing (local fundraising) departments for World Vision Zambia.

The heart and soul of the RAPIDS program are the 18,516 volunteer Caregivers. These are men and women who care for children and families afffected by HIV and AIDS who live in their communities. RAPIDS trains and equips these Caregivers and comes alongside a natural social movement that will be sustainable long after our program is gone.

This last week, I organized a Zambia-wide Caregiver appreciation day where we honored all 18,516 RAPIDS Caregivers around the country with a certificate and a chitenge (a 2 meter piece of fabric that women use to wrap around their waist - think "sarong").

Our two Caregiver speakers (who were fantastic!) - Esther and John decked out in their RAPIDs outfits they had made!

In Lusaka, we had an event for about 350 of the local Lusaka Caregivers (there were too many to honor ALL of them at this event, but they held satellite events for all Caregivers) - and we had Dr. Kaunda (Zambia's first elected President) and the new US Ambassador attend our event. This was the first public event for the new Ambassador - so ALL kinds of nervousness by the USG staff to make sure everything was ship-shape, tip-top! They drove me nuts!! :-)

At the World Vision table: L to R: Charles Owubah, National Director of WV, USAID mission director, the new US Ambassador and KK, the first Zambian president, WV staff

It was fun to see so many Caregivers ride in on their bicycles (see John's entry about the bikes) and it was great to be able to honor and encourage them in the work they do.

At the Caregivers Day event in Lusaka

In addition to this, I've also helped write proposals to raise cash gifts from private corporations and other potential donors.

For my World Vision Zambia job, I am currently working on an event to launch the Zambia Water, Sanitiation and Hygiene (ZWASH) program. A major donor from the U.S. gave World Vision a $5 million gift that will be matched by other donors totalling $10 million over 5 years.

Next week, this major donor is coming to Zambia to launch the program - so I'm in event planner mode again with a large "launch event" that will take place over 3 days. I'll also be involved with finding additional gifts and reporting back to the donors who fund this project - and because water is so crucial for the well-being of communities, this will be a great addition to the other work World Vision Zambia is doing.

I leave on Monday for the trip to the field with the donor, the World Vision U.S. reps handling the account and our WV water specialists. Should be fun!

There are so many protocol issues that I am totally ignorant about. Did you know that if you have a Government Minister attend your event, you have to wait until he/she arrives until you start the event EVEN THOUGH that Minister can be up to/or over and hour late!!

So, we've had to make provisions to fill time in case the Minister is late! Also, our M.C. for the event cannot introduce the Minister directly - that has to be done by one of the Directors in the department the Minister works in (in this case, it's the Local Government and Housing department).

And, if it rains and the roads are so muddy that we can't drive to the site where we're drilling the well (which is part of our launch program)? Well, our Regional Manager said, "they have to walk!" - so picture this: men in suits with fancy shoes walking down a muddy path to get to the village where we're drilling the well!! Thank goodness the ladies from the village will be singing and dancing and taking their minds off of the mud! :-)

I'll report more next week....

Location of one of World Vision's water wells in the Southern Province... you can see why they need water - it is so dry!

The Weather

2008-12-03T17:17:00.003+02:00

People have been wonderring about our weather here in Lusaka...

We've been here for most of the seasons - or so it seems. Here's a brief run-through:

The cold season: when we arrived in early August we were at the tail end of the cold season. We wore coats in the morning - and closed toe shoes. It's coldest in June/July.

The windy season followed: pretty descriptive. There is so much open land -- without any vegetation -- covered in red dirt. The wind carries the dirt that gets into everything. Our furniture was covered with dirt on a regular basis.

The hot season (September): It was HOT - around 100 degrees most days. Not too humid, but just HOT (thank goodness we have air conditioners in the house!).

Now, we're into the rainy season: there are torrential downpours, drizzles and ongoing rain... sometimes it looks a lot like Tacoma! I hear that there's a warm rainy season and a cold rainy season. We're in the warm rainy season - and unlike the Northwest, it clears - usually that day - and we have blue skies and warm weather. It's a bit more humid right before the rains clear up the air. Still, we wear shorts and tshirts every day...

Most mornings we sit on our front veranda, drinking our coffee and enjoying the wonderful warm days...it's really beautiful out right now - beautiful blue skies, white fluffy clouds and a gentle breeze!

Now, back to the rest of the news!

Our Thanksgiving Vacation

2008-11-30T20:13:00.010+02:00

While everyone else in the US was snatching up stuff on sale at the after Thanksgiving Day sales - we jumped in the car and together with our friends, the Huddles, drove 4 hours north to N'sobe Lodge.

We rented a chalet (pronounced shall-let) that had four bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a big dinining/living room and a smallish, but decent kitchen - that sat on the edge of a small lake.

When we got there, we learned that the Lodge was holding a Jr. fishing derby the next morning - so we registered all five kids. Talk about FUN! Their team - the "the exploding minnows" came in fourth place with a haul of 20 kgs of fish. Sophie was ALMOST the winner in the largest fish category!

Sophie, Naomi Huddle and Peter with their haul of bream (or tilapia).

Getting the official weigh-in for Sophie's fish.

We also went on a mini game drive on the property and saw giraffes, zebras and antelopes - it was VERY exciting to get so close to the animals!

All the kids: Sophie, Peter, Charis, Nathan and Naomi on our safari drive

Zebra and Giraffes - up close and personal...

As much as we missed our annual trip to Seattle to watch the Thanksgiving Day parade, this was WAY better - and so much fun!

To see all the photos: ttp://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/NSobeLodgeThanksgiving2008

John's day with WBR

2008-11-07T18:13:00.009+02:00

This last week I had the opportunity to go on a site visit with World Bicycle Relief (a partner of RAPIDS and World Vision – that Miyon works for). WBR, along with the Zambian Ministry of Education is starting a bicycle empowerment program in the Chombe district which just north of Lusaka. This pilot program plans to distribute bicycles to students and teachers that are challenged by the distances they live from their schools. Take a look at their webpage at www.worldbicyclerelief.org to get the full vision of what WBR is doing in Zambia.

F.K. Dey (center) founder of WBR encouraging

students at Ndpula community school

The first school we visited was a small school in Ndpula. After our bus traveled about 25 kilometers of dirt road we arrived at this small 6 room school house. Ndpula is a community school*. It has 266 students ranging from grade 1 to grade 7. The geographical area the school serves is quite large. Some students travel more than 6 kilometers (over 3 miles) one way just to get to school. It was quite inspiring to see how dedicated this community is in trying to get their children educated. They are so grateful to anyone who will help them. The simple vision of WBR is to make it easier for kids and teachers get to school through the use of bicycles.

The Basic school at Nkiwda

The second school we visited was a basic school* in Nkiwda. This school which is has more students than Ndpula also serves a population that need assistance with students and teachers who travel long distances. This school starts its morning session at 7:00am and some will travel over 10 kilometers just to get to campus. To get there on time, one student leaves at 5:00am! I can’t imagine asking Peter or Sophie to get out of bed at 4:30 and then walk over 6 miles to get to school. . . And do that 5 days a week!! On being asked how bicycles would impact their school, one student responded that it would benefit even those who wouldn’t receive bicycles because they wouldn’t have to wait for the students who have to travel so far to get to school. Teachers will wait for all students to be present before they start their lessons.

WBR’s goal is to provide 50,000 bikes to students, teachers, and some community leaders to help improve education in Zambia. 80% of these bikes will go to community schools like Ndpula with 70% going to girl students (the most vulnerable population making their way to school) and 30% to boys. Their distribution goal is to make local families the owners of these bikes so that on weekends and evenings the bicycle could also be used for income generating activities.

* Community schools do not receive any government funding and are paid for in full by the community. The schools are primarily operated by volunteers. Teachers are paid a small stipend, or payment will come in the form of chickens and/or vegetables. Students are asked, if they can, to pay the equivalent of 25 cents a month to help defer some of the costs of supplies.

*Basic schools receive government funding. Although these schools do receive support, they serve the same population of community schools. Students are required to pay for supplies as well.

John's Mission: accomplished

2008-11-01T16:24:00.005+02:00

John has been faithfully searching for a second car and at long last, he's found the car! We purchased this 1994 Toyota Surf (just like a Forerunner) from an Embassy employee who will be leaving Lusaka in March. It's manual and diesel (which is cheaper than petrol/gas) - just what John was looking for! He's received some pretty good recommendations about this car - the year, 1994, and the model. The only glitch is that the engine needs to be reuilt (thankfully, the owner was very upfront about this and lowered the price) - so it'll go into the shop next week for a three week repair job.

Once he has a car, it will enable him to get out and involved with the community - either as a volunteer or as a paid employee! No more TV and bon-bons for him!! Just kidding - he has been very busy!!

High School Musical - in Zambia!!

2008-11-01T16:01:00.004+02:00

Today was a first:

1. We discovered there's a movie theater in Lusaka - and it looks a LOT like the ones in the states - tiered seats and all! Tickets were about $6 for me and $4.50 for the kids. Popcorn was available (no synthetic butter but they had salt and vinegar "salt" and some cheese "salt" that you could sprinkle on top).

2. High School Musical 3 was showing! Who knew it would get to Zambia so quickly...and the theater was hardly full at all!

Sophie, Peter and their friends Charis and Naomi at HSM 3

Our Vacation to Victoria Falls

2008-10-29T20:39:00.006+02:00

Our first family vacation - to Victoria Falls!

I went with a wonderful group of donors from Portland, who had funded water projects in Southern Zambia. It was very hot (105 degrees+) and dry and there was a tremendous need for water - both for health reasons (drinking unclean water is major cause of diarhhea and dysentery which can lead to death - especially for children under 5) and for crop production. We saw lots of borehole wells and lots of dry riverbeds where people were digging down to access water...I'll post more photos on another blog entry.

At the end of our time, the donors took a trip to Victoria Falls - and John and the kids joined me for four days.

The rainy season starts next month - so there has been almost 10 months of no rain and the Zambezi River (that feeds Vic Falls) had very little water running through it. You can see how there is only one trickle of water over the Zambia side of the falls - and to the left, the channel is deeper on the Zimbabwe side, so there is more water volume (see the water spray).

Looking down the canyon towards the Zimbabwe side of the falls

This is the famous bridge that people bungee jump off of!

John and I walked across the dry river bed and saw some amazing rock formations from the water pounding down the river.

We hope to visit the Falls again when there is water running over - and will share those photos with you - I'm sure it will be an amazing contrast. Apparently, you can see the spray for miles and when you walk where we were walking, you get drenched from the spray!

Visit to the Crocodile Farm!

2008-10-29T18:09:00.006+02:00

We took a day trip to Kalima Crocodile Farm here in Lusaka with our friends Kristin and her boyfriend, Clinton. The farm harvests croc eggs and when the crocs reach 3 years old, they skin them and sell the skins for export. They also sell crocodile burgers at their "restaurant" - the croc tails are used for the meat.

The farm is run by a British man - and our guide said that they skin 1,000 crocs per year and get about $320 per skin. The main export market is to Asia.

They also have snakes (a favorite for John - NOT!), chameleons and a tortoise.

Peter and our guide, John, holding a python

Our guide mentioned that it was almost feeding time - and we got to witness a fairly disgusting event! The crocs are fed dead chickens - and when the workers rolled out the wheelbarrow with a big bag of dead chickens, you could smell it first - then saw all the flies buzzing around. The workers just stuck their hands into the bag and pulled out these nasty, dead chickens and threw them into the croc pits.

Yum, yum - love those chickens!

Crocodiles don't have a tongue, so they just throw back their heads to get the chickens down their throat. It's easier for them to eat the chickens in the water then to come up on land. The workers just whistled and the crocs knew it was feeding time, so they started swimming to the food!

We also saw the workers looking for croc eggs - they scared away a croc and started digging in the dirt, but there weren't any eggs there. They grab the eggs so they can incubate them in a separate part of the farm.

Take a look at the other photos:

http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/KalimaCrocFarm

Visit to Mother Teresa's

2008-10-13T19:55:00.007+02:00

Sophie comforting a little guy...

A month ago, I accompanied a group of World Vision donors from San Fransisco to Mother Teresa's home here in Lusaka and Sophie joined me...

It was a touching visit. The 8 sisters who are assigned there run a community school for children from the compound and the neighboring area, care for 100+ infants and toddlers - many who are HIV positive, care for 60+ women and 90+ men.

There were twin girls TWO WEEKS OLD whose mother had died in childbirth and the father was being cared for in the men's unit. Both babies were HIV positive...

In the women's ward there were 63 women who were being cared for. They said that the women don't stay as long as the men because they are motivated to get better and get home to take care of their families - the men...well, they like being cared for I guess!! :-)

When asked if they get discouraged caring for all the patients, Sister Grace said, "we see the face of Jesus in each of the people we care for and are encouraged to keep doing good work." The sisters spend hours in prayer each day and take a vow of poverty as they live amongst the poor. They only have the clothes on their backs and their Bible - and can get called away to another home at any time. The two Sisters we met were from India (Calcutta - and had met Mother Teresa) and Madagascar.

If you recycle - but it increases alcoholism rates, is that ok?

2008-10-10T20:16:00.008+02:00

Peter trying to negotiate a broom with two milk jugs -
but then he found out he needed four jugs

You remember how distressed we were to learn that there is no recycling in Zambia(see one of the first blog entries)? Well, there's good news: we can recycle our milk jugs!

On a weekly basis, ladies walk the streets singing “vipiango” in a very nasally voice - which means sweeper or broom (think “chim chiminey” from Mary Poppins, but not so melodic!). They carry the brooms on their heads - and as their sales increase, they have fewer brooms and more jugs to carry.

Four milk jugs buy a “sweeper” or broom. The jugs are sold to people/bars who make home made beer called “shakey shakey.” Last week, the ladies told me that one broom went for four jugs – this week, they told me it was five jugs…I think it was the muzungu (“foreigner”) price – so I told them that I only have four jugs – and they said ok. It’s good they’re open to negotiation!

I should have asked them how much they get for each jug!

If we're doing good for the environment, but cause alcoholism rates to go up, are we still doing good?

The second attempt:

Let me make sure the jugs are ok...

Ok, now you can have one of my brooms

The jugs that will go on to be filled with "shakey shakey" beer

RAIN!!!

2008-10-10T19:33:00.004+02:00

See the hail on the umbrella?

When I left work today, it was about 95 degrees - and I thought it looked a little dark in one part of the sky…and sure enough a couple hours later, the rain came pouring down!!

It rained AND HAILED!!! I’m not a meteorologist, but I thought that it needed to be around freezing--or at least pretty cold-- for hail to come from the sky. Clearly, in the southern hemisphere, it can still hail when it's 60+ degrees out!

The rains/hail AND lightening and thunder lasted about 2 hours…we sat outside and enjoyed the rain – until it got so windy that it was blowing water and hail all over us…we retreated to the safety of our living room…

Even now, Virginia is outside cleaning up our muddy footprints on the tile verada/porch…

Peter and Mwansa waiting out the rain in the guard's house

The rain and hail on our driveway

One other side effect – that may be tied to the rains – is that we have no power…this happens on a fairly regular basis in many parts of Lusaka, but thankfully, in part because we’re around the corner from the President’s house, we don’t lose power that often (so far it’s been 3 times in the 2 months we’ve been here). Many other folks we know lose power on a regular basis for many hours at a time.

The last time we lost power, we didn’t even have any candles…but we did have our headlamps so we walked around the house with our headlamps on! Now, at least we're prepared with one candle and matches...and our headlamps!

Mysterious Disease in Lusaka...

2008-10-08T21:25:00.002+02:00

It's not every day that we get a message from the Embassy telling us about the mysterious deaths of three people from Lusaka...thought you'd be interested in reading this...

This Message is related to recent rumors regarding an illness that took the life of a Lusaka resident and her caregiver. The Embassy believes that this illness does not pose a significant threat to the American community in Lusaka or across Zambia at this time. Provide below is the text of an official notice published by the Zambian Ministry of Health Monday, October 6.

The Embassy will continue to monitor events and will share information through the warden network as necessary. Should an American citizen experience a health emergency, the Embassy recommends that they seek immediate medical attention. If necessary, the Embassy can be reached at 260-211-250-955 on a twenty-four hour basis.

FROM THE ZAMBIAN MINISTRY OF HEALTH
Briefing on the Reported Deaths of Patients from an Unknown Illness

The nation is being informed that the Government of the Republic of Zambia through the Ministry of Health has received information of an unknown illness which so far has claimed three lives.

The first person to suffer from it was a female South African that was resident in Zambia who fell sick about 4 September 2008. She was evacuated to Morningside Clinic where she later died on 13 September 2008.

The second victim was a paramedic that had escorted the patient to South Africa. The third victim was a nurse based at Morningside that attended to the first patient. Unconfirmed reports indicate that the driver of the ambulance that ferried the patient from Lanseria Airport to Morningside in South Africa is presently in a critical condition.

All these patients developed a fever, cough and bled from various parts of their bodies.
Laboratory investigations so far done do NOT point to any particular known disease. However, the Ministry of Health in collaboration with the World Health Organization (WHO) and the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) is still carrying all the necessary investigations. In the meantime, all the contacts are being traced, and so far, of all those identified, none of them is in danger.

Note that none of our health facilities here in Zambia has reported such an illness.

The Government of the Republic of Zambia through the Ministry of Health would like to assure the nation that the situation is under control and is being given the special attention that it deserves and would like to appeal to all members of the public to remain calm.

It is from the foregoing that international and local travel, both air and road, trade and commercial services in and out of the country should continue as usual.

Members of the public are also cautioned that any suspicious case presenting with fever, cough and bleeding from any part of the body should be reported to the nearest health facility.

Sophie's Safari Report

2008-10-06T20:12:00.006+02:00

Hippos in the river

I'm back from my safari! it was so much fun! here is what i did:
game drive
night drive
swimming
boat ride
camp activities

On my first day i got up very early to get on the road for the game drive. on the game drive, we saw puku, impalas, warthogs, hippos, monkeys, and alot of birds! we were out in the middle of no where looking for animals for about 8-9 hours!

The second day, we stayed at the camp (Treetops) and did activities. we did an egg drop where you have to make something so that when the egg drops, it doesn't splat! then at 4:00 p.m. we went on a night drive. on the night drive, we saw all the stars and the moon! the stars were so amazing! when you look up, you see just a whole sky of stars! we were out at night for about 4 hours! why so early? well, later in the day, my teacher mr. kys and some of my classmates got stuck in the sand! they were stuck for about 6 hours! they ran out of water quickly. then, my other teacher ms. johnson got the satellite phone (no connection) and called every camp and lodge! but they came back and we went on our night drive! they were covered in dirt and dust! they looked like they were pitch black!

The third day, my group went to a lodge called lufupa lodge and we went on a boat ride. on the boat ride, we saw crocodiles, fish eagles, and hippos! after the boat ride, we went swimming! but the water was green! we also had cold water! at treetops we didn't have cold water! so it was a blessing that the ice at lafupa was free!

The last day! :( on the last day, we packed up our things, ate breakfast, and loaded the buses! it was 9 hours! ahhhh! after that, we headed out of the park witch toke about three hours and to Lusaka it was 6 hours. we left at 8:00 a.m. and arrived at my school at 4:30 p.m.! when my mom and dad picked me up, we went straight to a store and bought fantas and diet coke! treetops was so much fun!

Here are the photos I took on my trip: http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/SophieSSafari

Sophie Goes on Safari!!!

2008-10-01T18:53:00.009+02:00

Sophie standing in front of all the luggage

Sophie left Monday for a week-long field trip to Kafue National Park - Treetops Schools' Camp -- a 7 hour drive from Lusaka. The two 6th grade classes are going to the northern part of the park - an area covered by miombo and mopane woodlands, with occasional open grassy plains. There are also hardwood trees including sausage trees and baobabs. The classroom at Treetops is dwarfed by a huge baobab tree, which is hundreds of years old.

There are over 400 species of birds including martial and fish eagles, crowned and wattled cranes, saddle-billed storks and hornbills, kingfishers and babblers. Kafue also has antelopes - puku, impala,kudu, bushbuck, hartebeest, defassa waterbuck, sable, roan, lechwe, oribi and blue wildebeest. Also there are elephant, buffalo, zebra, hippo and crocodile.

One of the two 6th grade teachers is a safari guide when he's not teaching, so you know the kids are going to see a LOT of animals - during the day AND at night (for night drives).

It's quiet here at home (not so much arguing between Sophie and Peter) - and we miss Sophie, but know that she's having an opportunity of a lifetime! Sophie will write on the blog when she returns!

Here's some photos of the group (34 kids, 6 adults) as they get ready to go.

Food for the trip - the teachers and kids will do the cooking for the week.

Saturday Market at the Dutch Reformed Church

2008-09-27T14:55:00.003+02:00

There isn't a lot of action here in Zambia...so whenever there's something happening, everyone shows up since we're all excited to go somewhere!

That is the case with the monthly Saturday Market. Held the last Saturday of each month, it is "the place to see and be seen" as one person told me. The ex-pat community is so small in Lusaka, that you're bound to see several people you know!

There are lots of crafts and food booths. People love to visit, hang out, barter with the vendors and buy stuff. The variety is interesting: plants, fruit, veggies, spices, wooden carvings, fabric, fancy pastries (a french bakery sells croissants and ciabatta), wire and beaded animals, etc.

The kids each get 5,000 kwacha (about $1.50) to spend - Peter bought a wooden giraffe and the carver had to add the eyes and Sophie, for the second time in a row, opted to buy cotton candy (which you'll see in the photos).

http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/SaturdayMarket

The African Community

2008-09-26T15:43:00.003+02:00

We've had our first experience being part of the African community.

Here, everyone is part of the community and the general feeing is that we all share and give of what we have...If you have more than I do, then you should give some to me. And, there's never any harm in asking you for stuff - for your watch, shoes, money, food, etc. You'd want to share with me since we're all one big family!

Well, our night guard, Goodson came to the door the other night asking me for mealie meal - the ground corn that they use to make their staple dish: nshima. I told him I didn't have any mealie meal, that we didn't eat it...then he said, "well, that's ok if you don't have it, can you loan me 50,000 kwacha (about $15) so I can buy some?"

We got some advice from friends that however we chose to respond to these types of requests (and we would get lots of them) we had to remember that we'd need to continue to respond in the same way to subsequent similar requests. And that IF we "loan" someone money, don't ever expect to see it paid back.

I made the decision to not give Goodson money because I knew it would open the floodgates for him to ask every month (or week!) for more...

If we paid him for his services, I probably would have given him an advance on his pay- but since World Vision pays for the guard service, I knew I'd have to consider this "loan" a gift since it would never be repaid.

The next thing we learned from Virginia, our housekeeper, was that a metal post from her yard had gone missing. This was the night after Goodson had asked for the food/money. He was the only person who had access to the back of the house so after talking with Virginia, World Vision and my boss, we all determined that it was best to fire Goodson.

However, we told him that if he brought the pipe back we wouldn't tell his company - and he could keep his job. Well, if he really needed the money, which it sounds like he did, I'm sure the pipe was long gone!

Until we get a new guard, Goodson has been here - but he knows that he'll be fired and seems to be very sad... With such a high unemployment rate, it's hard to make a decision like this that affects a life. But the reality is that he could continue to lift items that belong to us - and then what? People told us not to tolerate - or accept - theft.

Later that same week, we were on a family walk and a woman stopped me to tell me about her 14 year old daughter who had gotten pregnant - and could I help with her daughter's baby. I guess any expat is open game for seeking help and asking for money...

Welcome to the African village!

We're all sick!

2008-09-26T15:24:00.002+02:00

This week, something caught up with us... and we all got sick.

Peter started it off with coughing and achiness last Friday (a week ago).

Sophie was out of school on Monday and Tuesday - John took her to the clinic on Tuesday - they said they thought it was something she ate so gave her a low level antibiotic.

Miyon went to work on Tuesday, then felt so sick that she cancelled her meetings, came home and ended up throwing up (then feeling better!). She started on some cipro (antibiotic) we had brought with us - since this was going on nearly 2 weeks of feeling something brewing in her stomach, figured it's better to just kill it - and not worry about the effects of too many antibiotics!

Then John caught it - and threw up 5 times on Thursday... he's now on the mend...

Now, we're on round 2:

This morning I was driving the kids to school (because John still doesn't feel well today) - and we were nearly there when I hear what sounds like a water bottle being tipped over...

No - instead it was Peter who had just thrown up in the car. Naturally, the smell alone causes a chain reaction and Sophie almost threw up out the window (thank goodness she was smart to put her head out the window!). We rushed home, got Peter out of the car, wiped the inside of the car down a bit, then back up to school to drop Sophie off (who still made it before the bell) - and I took off for work!

I was carpooling today and had to drive with the windows down to air the car out. As luck would have it, today is one of the hottest days yet - so the wonderful smell of getting into a 90+ degree car with the leftover smell of barf...well, you get the picture!!

Let's hope we all get better this weekend!

Peter's New Hairdo!

2008-09-18T19:20:00.005+02:00

Peter decided his long hair was too hot (especially since he has to wear a hat during PE) and so I cut off his Beatle's hair do...

Before:

After:

Photos of Lusaka:
We went driving "downtown" on Sunday and gave the kids the camera so they could take photos of Lusaka. I had to delete most of them because I don't even know what the images were! Even the ones that are here don't make much sense to me... but they do show you a bit of Lusaka. Just so you know that lions aren't walking down the street and that we do live "in the city", here are some VERY random photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/LusakaCityDrive

Trip to Chinkankata Village

2008-09-14T13:25:00.005+02:00

Volunteer caregivers who help take care of people living with AIDS and children orphaned by AIDS. They visit their "clients" 2-4 times a month and help with cooking, cleaning, take care of medical needs and provide hope.

A reporter from The Sun in the U.K. asked to see our malaria work since he was in Zambia to do a story on Christian Aid (a UK-based NGO). The reporter, Oliver Harvey, described The Sun as a "voracious tabloid" - it's apparently a step above the National Inquirer, but not so gossipy and slick as People magazine! He was doing a report to support Malaria No More so wanted a project that had benefited from mosquito nets.

Part of my job with RAPIDS will be to take reporters like this to see our work. For me, it was great to be in the field to meet the caregivers who are carrying out the work - and to better understand some of the issues the community faces.

One of the caregivers, Nurse Nakalonga (her name is Nurse, but I don't think she's a nurse), age 55, said this about being a caregiver:

"We know that at some point we will die and we feel humbled. We've seen relatives who have died from HIV/AIDS. We thank God because he has spoken to us and now we're working for our community as volunteers; we feel encouraged. We're not used to staying home because we like doing the work."

I also met a grandmother, Regina Moomba (who is 79 years old, which is a phenomenon in a country where the life expectancy is 37 years). She is caring for 10 grandchildren (the oldest is 34 and the youngest is 10). Her daughter and son in law both died of AIDS and her oldest grand daughter (at 34) along with her child are both HIV positive.

They have 14 people living in their compound, but only 3 mosquito nets... thankfully, they know to put the most vulnerable people: those with HIV/AIDS under the nets. Members of the community said that they noticed a sharp decline in cases of malaria once they put up their mosquito nets - but you can see that more are needed...

Here's a link to more photos from my trip: http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/ChikankataVisit

Peter's Open House at School

2008-09-14T12:19:00.003+02:00

The American International School (AIS) had a "follow your child for a day" day - and John went with Peter. Here are some photos from that day:

http://picasaweb.google.com/miyonkautz/PeterSSchoolDay

When you look at the kids - don't think they're American... Peter told us that there is only one other American kid in his class!

Where do we shop for food?

2008-09-09T19:13:00.006+02:00

People have been asking where we get our food, so I thought I'd take some photos of our local haunts. People were staring at me, wondering what I was up to!

We have two major supermarkets: Spar and Shoprite. They're both well-lit, semi-air-conditioned, have electronic scanners, etc.

Shoprite takes credit cards which is pretty amazing because I think there are only a handful of stores in all of Lusaka that take credit cards. It's a time consuming process because a manager has to be called over to swipe the card and pull out the receipt. The other day, we were in Shoprite and when the receipt popped up, I said to the cashier "oh, you can pull it out and I'll sign it" - and she said that she couldn't pull it out, the manager had to pull it out... so we waited several more minutes for the manager to return, just to pull the receipt out of the machine!

Shopping at Shoprite

We have our local small grocery store: Melissa's that has pretty decent prices. It's almost always busy, but more like a family run grocery store. I wish I was brave enough to take a photo of the meat counter (but there's always someone hovering nearby!): it's an open counter (that I think is refridgerated, but it can't be very efficient since there is no cover over the top) but there are hunks of beef, sausages, etc. just sitting out in the open. Nothing is sealed...it just looks bad and you know the meat can't be good for you...

Vegetables for sale at Melissas

Every Tuesday is Tuesday Market (pretty clever with names, eh?). This is a very fun day to do our vegetable and fruit shopping. As you can see there are lots of vendors all with their wares on the ground. It's hard to decide which person to shop from...one World Vision staff member told me that he chooses either older women (widows) or young women with children because he figures they need the money the most.

In the few weeks we've been here, I already have a pattern: we buy our bok choy (chinese cabbage), spinach, bean sprouts and sometimes tofu from the chinese folks in the corner. Then buy our fruit (apples, pears and oranges) from the lady who has fruit from South Africa. Our housekeeper, Virginia (who always comes along to carry my bag) thinks I'm getting ripped off and that I should bargain more. But, when I'm only saving about 15 cents per kilo, it hardly seems worth it to dicker over the price. Maybe I'll try harder in future shopping expeditions.

I did notice that Virginia likes to come along but doesn't buy anything. She does, however, get some freebie handouts from what I buy. My guess is she must be telling the vendors: hey, this lady is spending more money than she has to, so give me some free bananas, ginger, or whatever she happens to need that day. So, the last couple times, she's taken home some additional fruit/veggies that she hasn't had to pay for...not too bad...

There are lots of Zambians, Chinese, Indians, other middle easterners (women completely covered in black with just their eyes showing) who are there with their baskets dickering over the price of various items. It's pretty interesting to watch; I can spot the pros - they're the ones who come with their own weighing scale to make sure they're not getting ripped off!

We get there at about 7:30a.m. and are out of there by 8am...the market continues until 5pm. I can only imagine all the haggling that goes on during those hours!!

The Watering Hole

2008-09-04T07:45:00.002+02:00

Almost every day, Peter, Mutele (12), Mwansa (6), Billy (10) and Sophie - all pictured above - go swimming in our pool (the three brothers are our housekeeper's sons). They have a great time playing although they're never in for very long because the water is so cold. Our pool guy - that would be John !! - is still trying to figure out why the water is so cloudy... We don't think the kids will contract some disease since there is so much chlorine in it, but it would be nice to see the bottom of the pool!

Sophie and Her Curly Hair!

2008-09-04T07:27:00.005+02:00

Sophie decided that she wanted to have curly hair - so I got out all the socks, tied them in her hair - and voila, the next morning she had a head of (almost too) curly hair!

The night before:

The day after:

2008-08-29T19:40:00.000+02:00

Our Wall

2008-08-29T14:31:00.008+02:00

The wall, the gate and the guard's hut from our front porch.

I've been thinking about our wall lately. It's a 8 foot plaster wall with electric wires on the top (to shock anyone who tries to jump over the wall). There's a metal, automated gate that opens with a remote.

We can't see what goes on, on the other side of our wall. So, I was surprised when I drove out to go to the grocery store one evening, how many people were walking along our street in twos and threes. They seemed to be out for an evening stroll...We need to be out strolling and meeting others!

Msuzi Road in the early morning hours and all the homes behind walls...

We don't ever see our neighbors (because they're behind their walls), but we can hear their dogs barking (reminds us of the incessant barking from our neighbor's dogs in Tacoma), roosters crowing and the ongoing car honking (to signal the guard to open the gate). Even though we can't hear our neighbors, I have a feeling that Peter and the three boys (Muteli, Billy and Mwansa - our housekeeper's sons) are heard throughout the neighborhood screaming, yelling and laughing as they play in the yard.

As we sit on our front porch (looking out at the wall), I realize that there's some comfort in anonymity - we can be...and no one stares at us...and we can enjoy the peace and beauty of the yard.

Should we be more open to the public? As the "mzungus" (foreigners), it's nice to not be on display... but I must be feeling a bit guilty about not interacting more...

One of the first days we were here, we didn't know how to open the gate - and didn't have a key to open the door (on the gate) - we were locked in! That wasn't very comforting.

The Guards:

We just got rid of our day guard...I don't think Virginia (our housekeeper) was very comfortable with him (he did seem a little sketchy). He just sat - and often spent his time staring at us! Talk about feeling on display! Here he is in his usual position:

The evening guard, Goodson, seems like a decent guy - and has even taken on the day shift when the day guard didn't show up! 24 hours of work!

No Recycling

2008-08-21T11:40:00.005+02:00

There is no recycling here... we are going through plastic water bottles like crazy because we have to drink bottled water (it's unsafe to drink water from the tap). Even now, we can't bring ourselves to throw the bottles away, so we just stack them in the corner of our kitchen counter with the hopes that they will magically recycle themselves! I think we'll break down and throw them away next week.

While many U.S. shops are now charging shoppers to take/use a plastic bag to take away their goods, Zambia doles out the plastic bags like they're going out of style! No wonder there are so many littering the streets and hanging off of branches!

My boss's wife has a ministry to widows and they create beautiful purses made out of plastic bags so that's one good way to recycle... now, what to do with those plastic bottles (if only Patagonia would come get them to make their clothing!!!).